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92 22REFI 2wd clutch replacement

I have prices for a clutch replacement, parts from $300 for performance kit to $107 at

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, but itdoes not say what manufacturer. or... for a Cumberland clutch kit with allignment tool, and throwoutbearing $80(from AutoZone) Seems to be in the $200s for the OEMToyota clutch kit, not sure if it has the throwout bearing. Pilotbearing is extra. This used truck has almost 80k on it, seems like theOEM clutch would have lasted longer, but I believe it towed/hauledalot.. Would the Cumberland brand be as good as the OEM?? Any opinions?

Also, I have done a 87 22r clutch, is the 22refi basically the same or should I watch out for serious other pains?? It worked ok with 2 people, one on top to guide the socket end with the person underneath with a few extensions and a universal. (except the pilot was stuck and I had to pry it off, awful skueeeeeee sound)

Any opions on clutch kit for 22re or brands? other items to replace while apart?? (pilot for sure, but anything else ...??)

Reply to
Cregster
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I have a 93 2wd 22re. I had a friend (arthritic part-time mechanic) do mine. He did everything himself except I helped him hoist the tranny back in position. As far as the top bell housing bolts, he said once he got the rear of the trans free, he could tip the trans/engine down far enough to get to the top bell housing bolts with an extension (maybe a wobbler) (he used impact wrenches).

If your fuel filter is mounted on the block like mine (above the starter), this would be an excellent opportunity to switch it out.

Check the shifter plate gasket area for leaks.

He put in a CarQuest clutch kit -- it tends to chatter when hot.

Original clutch lasted 180k -- I have a light foot. They last anywhere from

80k to 250k, depending on how you drive.

Jim

Reply to
James Andrus

Reply to
Cregster

While the clutch is releasing. If you Google the subject of clutch chatter, you will find that some brands of clutches chatter when dry (ie not contaminated by oil), especially high performance clutches with ceramic linings. One web site decribed a ceramic lined clutch that was almost impossible to drive. In my case, there may be oil involved, as there was an oil leak from the valve cover that I fixed -- I'm waiting 'til next summer to see if it comes back before I pull the tranny. Heat can make the oil vaporize and form a film on the plates and flywheel. In any case, I never heard of Cumberland Clutch brand. Sounds like a name Auto Zone made up. Unless you are broke, I would look for a name that means something, a company that actually makes the parts, like Luk. Go to a real parts store and see what they sell. Ask a few good tranny shops. Look at

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If you are going to keep the truck a long time and treat it well, the factory clutch has some merits.

Jim

Reply to
James Andrus

I would tend to agree with Jim.. especially since you say the first clutch wore out sooner than you expected. Maybe the clutch hydraulics haven't been completely disengaging the clutch.. just enough to stop the truck. Sachs makes good clutches... Centerforce is great too. OEM should be fine though, and worth the extra dough. You can probably get away with the cheapie throwout bearing though.. (that's what I did, $15 from the local parts store for a reputable bearing)

Reply to
Celica Dude

Personally, I would never go with a cheaper bearing. I have experienced two instances where I had original bearings start making noise long before the clutch facings (my facings do last a long time). Once I pulled the tranny just to switch out the bearing, the other I just listened to it squeal for

80k.

Jim

Reply to
James Andrus

Okay, I'll concede.

Reply to
Celica Dude

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