automatic transmission shift linkage cable from carb sticks

========= ========= Jon, there is NO way to lube the cable because the outer sheathing, casing, is designed to be weather tight on each end.

If the cable is retracting slowly as you stated......it's either got a crimp in it somewhere or it's corroded on the inside of the sheathing.

You "may" get lucky and find it crimped and be able to get it to work by fidgeting with the affected area. Doubtfull. (imo)

It can NOT be determined for sure without physically seeing the truck, but I would say it's time to replace the cable. Not entirely simple, but entirely doable by a DIY'er that's mechanically inclined.

To get a better idea of what your dealing with do some GOOGLE searches, and narrow the searches using good search techniques and common wording.

good luck. ~:~ MarshMonster ~trans tech~

Thanks MarshMonster for the input. I spent several hours searching and couldn't find any instructions for replacing this; which it looks like I will need to do. Carb end is no problem, but I'm not sure about the tranny end. I need to get all the old congealed grease and road grim cleaned of to get a better look. Do you know if you need to drop the tranny pan to get to the end of the cable that is "trapped" at the transmission?

Jon

Jon Splane wrote:

=========== =========== Jon, yes drop the pan, AND.....drop the valve body! . "You"...may be able to fish the cable on and off with a scribe.. maybe not. It's a pain in the arse with the v/bdy still on. . One thing...once the cable is off the valve body you need to finalize the diagnosis by working the cable back and forth. If you feel "any" resistance then go to work replacing the cable. If no resistence, suspect a problem with the linkage/valve on the valve body. (HIGHLY...unusual) . . There is one thing you can "Try"......once the cable is off the truck if you're financially challenging this repair. . You can cut the end off of one end of the cable, pull the cable out of the sheathing, then soak the cable and the sheathing with some kind of rust penetrate. Go to the hardware store and buy a piece of cable about 1 foot longer than what you yanked out of the sheathing, soak it with rust penetrate and install it into the sheathing and use it like a pipe cleaner to clean the inside of the sheathing out. Work it back and forth, yanking it out and cleaning it every once in a while...and cleaning the gunk out of the sheathing. Then dry the inside of the sheathing and the OEM cable, grease the OEM cable and reinstall it into the sheathing. See if it's working back and forth then. This doesn't always free the cable up....but...it does work, and I have done it several times. . If this works out okay.....then you can use a "shot" type fishing sinker and crimp it on the end of the cable to reattach it to the throttle linkage. .

If you'de like...... post the following...... . production date model engine also.....2w/d or 4w/d . then..... check your mail. . .

hopefully helpfull, ~:~ Marsh ~:~l

Hi marsh Monster, Thanks for all the good and detailed advice. I haven't done anything more with the truck until today. It is just parked in my drive, no garage, and it has been raining here all week. I checked the cable for any type of kink as per your suggestion. It appeared the cable had a bit of an angle where it left the bracket at the carb end. What had happened was the coiled wire cable sheath had come out of the metal cap it is socketed into. The cable was catching on the edge of the coiled sheath where it was cocked from the axis to the end cap. I hope that is clear. When I pushed the cable sheath all the way back into the end cap it moves freely. The truck then shifted perfectly on a test drive.

I put a small hose clamp around the cable sheath at the point spanning the end of the cap. That appears to have secured the cable sheath in the cap for now. If it works loose again I may remove the last inch or so of the plastic cover over the coiled sheathing and put it back in the cap with a little epoxy or try to use a crimping tool on it.

Thanks again for your help.

J>