I had an emergency one time that required me to drive down a twirling path on a mountain I had to use the brakes so much that it begun to smell.. I thought the brakes were air vented, anyways, I'm wondering should I get the brakes checked? They still work.. and would getting slotted/drilled discs prolong the brakes from overheating?
If the brakes still work without odd noises or grabbing, have someone check that there are no fluid leaks or cooked seals and there's enough lining left, and if they check out leave them alone.
If you really cooked your brakes you can hot-spot the rotors (cause localized hard nodules in the cast iron) and they can't be turned on a lathe to clean up the surfaces. (Without breaking the cutters...) Next time you need a brake job, you may have to also buy new rotors.
Slotted rotors need different calipers, because they're thicker, and are not needed for normal driving. Cross-drilled rotors are for racing only, they will chew up pads fast and are difficult to turn (interrupted cuts are hard on the lathe and cutters).
And you should always downshift on steep hills, let engine braking do part of the work.
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Emphasize:
"And you should always downshift on steep hills, let engine braking do part of the work."
The engine should be the major braking force on long downgrades. Downshift early. Then, press the brake pedal moderately hard to get the vehicle below whatever you feel is your max safe speed on that hill, then get off the brakes, let them cool, allow the engine to hold speed down even though it slowly increases to that max safe speed, brake moderately again, get off the brakes for cooling, etc., etc.
Some folks worry about the engine sound or don't like to load the transmission that way. On a long, steep downgrade with a heavy load, you don't have a choice. If you seriously overheat the brakes you crash.
Ken
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