Breaking Camshaft Timing Pulleys: What's the Secret??

Will someone please let me in on their secret for breaking the bolts on the Camshaft Timing Pulleys for an '88 4Runner V6? I am not above buying a special tool but would like to know one that works before making the purchase (the SST listed in the shop manual is no longer sold.)

I have tried a monster pair of channel locks on the spokes and an 18"

1/2in-drive breaker bar on the bolt but haven't had any luck. I am drawing a blank and would appreciate a hint from someone more experienced at this than I.

Also, one of the pulleys is mounted opposite the other. That is one is 'face in' and the other is 'face out.' My guess is that the last fellows that worked on this got one of them backward. Anyone know if -- by some far-fetched chance -- if this is factory setup?

Looking forward to that tip on breaking these bolts.

Best Regards,

Luther

Reply to
Luther
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Some of the BMW's require a heat gun to heat up the bolt area and soften the thread locking compound. It may take up to 5 minutes but it needs to get hot enough for water to sizzle on the metal before attempting to break the bolt loose. Otherwise, you may snap off the head and then you got a real problem going. The real kicker is where they put some locknut on the backside that you're not aware of (damhik!). I've seen ball bearings sealed with some threadlocker (German bearing locker, Black) that almost is bonded to the metal area as if welded. Nasty stuff.

Sometimes an impact gun will do amazing things too - but use heat first.

Good luck. Bent~

Reply to
B. Peg

Luther, I bought a special tool from Snap-On, you may have to do the same. These bolts for the cams are super tight and I doubt you'll get them off without one. If you need a part number, holler, then look in the yellow pages. I'll see if I can round one up online if you like.

Reply to
MDT Tech®

I built and broke 3 tools ("pin" wrenches: imagine a horseshoe with bolts sticking out of the end) before realizing the real secret to this:

Loosen the bolts BEFORE removing the belt. Put the tranny in gear, make sure the e-brake and wheel chocks are in place, and then use either an impact wrench or a long breaker bar.

Not factory at all, and I'm suprised there wasn't added stress on at least the belt.

lycka till! GTr

Reply to
gregory trimper

And if the belt's broken? Might use some luggage straps or rubber bungees to simulate a belt holding the pulley steady.

We were lucky enough when we had a similar prob changing our timing belt to have a handy granddad who made a tool with an old 50mm wrench and a couple of big bolts in exactly the right pattern to fit into the pulley to hold it in place. Still have it out in the garage, though it has no use on our current vehicles. You could rent/buy a pulley puller tool that's adjustable which would serve the same purpose. Dee

Reply to
Pookerz

Good information from everyone. Thanks.

I have ordered a specialty tool from TheToolWarehouse.net. It is supposed to be 'universal' and is specifically recommended for holding OHC timing pulleys on Toyotas and Nissans - so, it will probably do the job:

Schley Products Universal Camshaft Pulley Holder Order# SP 96800

The transmission is automatic and I already have the belt, crankshaft pulley, and oil pump off. So, I don't know that the 'belt-on' method is going to work for me. The shop manual specifically warns against using belt tension to break the bolts. Although, it does not explain why this should not be done.

Thanks again for all the great tips.

Luther

Reply to
Luther

Its supposed to be that way, those ends it what keeps the belt on the pulleys up top. The one on the drivers side will have the flange outward, opposite will be inward.

Reply to
MDT Tech®

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