Clutch Replacement - Toyota PU 93 2 wheel drive

I am going to replace my clutch this weekend on my 93 Toyota Pickup. It is a 2 wheel drive and as basic as they came in that year. There is a package that I can buy at Napa and I think it is like $150.00. I have two questions

  1. For some time now I have had a whining type noise coming from the tranny area. I have been told it is a throw-out bearing and that it can be easily replaced once the transmission is off. Is this true? Does this sound logical?
  2. I have never replaced a clutch before but am definitely mechanically inclined and have done alot of maintenance type work on cars before. I hear on this particular model it is really easy to get all of this done. What I am wondering is if I am going to run into any "gotchas" on the job. As in is there anything in particular I should look out for? Is this replacement pretty straightforward or am I getting into something that I will regret?

Thanks for the assistance everyone.....

Graham

Reply to
G-Ram
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It is easy to replace once the tranny is out... it will only whine while you have the clutched pressed in. Is that the case?

It is not difficult. There arent any hidden things, esp not with a 2WD. Consider doing this while the tranny is out:

- reaplce crank seal

- replace tranny seal

- If leaks reseal the oil pan now

Clutch dust can cause cancer, so dont breathe it. if you take the flywheel off, mark its location, same with the pressure plate.

Most bolts there require the proper torque and on flywheel and pressure plate bolts I would put loctite.

The top 2 tranny bolts are ard to reach, depening on model and motor. Have extensions and swivels ready.

Rent a tranny jack. its worth the $20. The clutch change should take you 6-10h the first time (4WD) and a lot less the second time ;)

Depending if you rather spend money or change clutch get a quality prsssure plate (like Exedy) and a quality disc. You get what you pay

matt

Reply to
L

I will be doing this in my garage at my house so I am good on that front....but thanks for bringing it up....logstics are important!!

The whining noise starts as soon as I get to 5mph. It is always apparent but reduces as soon as I push in my clutch. It almost sounds like it could be near the drive train or differenctial. It definitely feels like the whining is coming from right behind my seat on the drives side....hope this helps.

I am committed...Im tearin this son'bitch apart and gonnna get'r DONE!!! ;)

I am going to

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now to figure out how thehell I am going to get this done tomorrow.... ;)

Reply to
G-Ram

For the throwout bearing you will need high temp grease. Get toyota parts for all hard to reach parts like engine, tranny seal, pilot bearing and throwout bearing. Change those two bearings. Now I remember that getting the pilot bearing out of a V6 is PAINFUL. Get a bearingpuller for that.

I am not an expert on this whining problem. The throwout bearing should only whine when the clutch is pressed, other wining points to tranny bearings , maybe consult some Toyota forums like:

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Nothing with the clutch change is difficult. Just some parts are heavy (2WD tranny is lighter and has no TC) and its usually hard to get the tranny aligned and on. You should have a clutch alignment tool and without a jack you cant do it on your own.

Depending on which motor you have it will not be easy to change the crank seal. There are some implications about this seal you need to know.

You will not be able to do this right w/o a manual that tells you torque specs. I can give u those specs for 22RE and 3VZE motors if u have no manual.

You may or may not have to resurface your flywheel. This needs to be ground, not turned and if you have a recessed flywheel they need to make sure the recess is to spec!

Lastly, sometimes you get a wrong clutch disc, aside from installing it right side it needs to have the right thickness. I installed a clutch just to find out the disc is too thick. For the 3l V6 the disc must be

8.3 mm thick and the flywheel recess .5 mm.

What motor and tranny do you have?

Matt

Reply to
L

big snip

Can you talk a little more about the "recess"? Is this something like a counterbore (probably not quite how a machinist would refer to it...)? Something like, a simple disk that then has depression cut into the face such that the outer-most surface is "higher" than the inner-most surface? Difficult to explain without a drawing! Something like a shirt button, where on the "face" that other would see when you are wearing the shirt, has a "depressed" area in the center, where the holes for the attachment thread are? Jeez, this is hard with plain-text!

Thanks,

Reply to
tbl

The center portion, where the disc sits, of the wheel is raised. If the elevated part is ground and not the rest, it will affect performance.

It looks like this:

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Matt

Reply to
L

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