clutch won't disengage

Have you remembered to reinstall the thrust bearing? It it in the correct position? Is the throw out fork attached and the correct way around?

92 Toyota SR5 4WD 5 speed, 133K: I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw out and pilot bearings, had the flywheel turned .020. Put it back together and it won't go in gear with the engine running. It will start with it in gear, but then it won't shift into another gear. Thought I might have the clutch in backwards, pulled it back apart and it was installed right. Thought it might have air in the hydraulic clutch because I had removed the release cylinder; bled and bled it. No change. Replaced the release cylinder and the master cylinder. Again, no change. Need help, any ideas?

the correct position? Is the throw out fork attached and the correct way around?

Have never done this myself but have heard that when flywheel is turned & becaue clutch is hydraulic & therefore not adjustable, that the use of shims is recommended to compensate for the material removed from the flywheel. Not sure where or how these shims are placed but the idea does make sense. Could be contributing to your problem. Maybe some others here can shed more light on this. dc

I had a problem with my 89 two wheel drive Toyota pickup. I could not get the clutch to disengage. I changed the pressure plate, clutch, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, and sanded flywheel, and adjusted push rod to master cylinder but could not get clutch to disengage. So after you start it when you try to shift to another gear because the clutch is not disengaged you will not be able to push to another gear because of synchromesh or if you try to engage reverse it will grind. What it finally turned out to be was the pedal frame had cracked. If you stick your head under the dash with a flashlight where the stud to the back of the clutch master is you will see a crack. So when you push on pedal the frame will flex back and not allow the pushrod to push the clutch master far enough to disengage the clutch. On my 2 wheel drive I got a junkyard pedal set. To remove on my truck had to remove the brake power booster and master, and clutch master. The clutch master can be unbolted and line flexible enough so not need to be removed. The brake master and booster needs I think 3 lines removes and carefully bend out of way and remove. Then go under dash and remove brake pedal and disconnect all wires and remove 2 small bolts that go from top of pedal assembly into sheet metal above, one for brake pedal and one for clutch pedal. Do not forget these bolts as I missed one and ripped out the small sheet metal support in my frustration to remove. They are important as breaking the support will cause replacement pedal set to crack fast. Then pull back on set and manuever set out. You might also be able to weld old pedal set once you remove it.

Yes, I installed it. I'm sure it's correct, and the fork is attached and facing the right direction. I inspected it to try and tell if it was bent, but I can't see any evidence of damage.

I have purchased a .025 shim and have installed it. Haven't got the clutch reinstalled yet.

I thought this must've been the answer, but I can't find any evidence of a crack.

Can you see any parts moving under the car when you push the clutch pedal in?

Yes, I can see the release cylinder moving the fork. Fork moves .4 inches.

You can adjust the throw of the clutch pedal by moving the adjuster nuts on the tie rod. It is a pain to get to, but you have to get your head under the steering wheel so you can look up at the pedal assembly. By loosening the locking nuts and adjusting their position you can change how far the clutch pedal moves the master cylinder.

Have you tried getting a brave buddy to lie under the truck and operate the clutch manually where the slave cyl hooks up?

When I put the new master cylinder in I tried to adjust it for the most travel. I think I got the rod adjusted to where the rod from the master cylinder was threaded in just enough to where the adjuster nut could be tightened down.

I was that brave buddy. I had my son inside the truck (it's his truck by the way, just got it in September) pushing the clutch down. I tried to manually move the fork further but could not budge it. The fork does not go far enough to contact the back side of the opening in the bellhousing so it's not being physically restricted by the bellhousing opening.

I think that .4 inch travel at fork is good enough because I looked at my fork travel. So maybe bad parts. Thinking about it is the shifter feel sloppy. There is also the famous worn out shifter bushings that cause it hard to engage gears. It feels like the gears don't engage all the way. When it happened to me my shifter would pop out of gear when truck moving, but then my friend drove truck and held in shifter and it would drive ok. Other things it could be would be wrong or defective clutch, pressure plate, or maybe crankshaft has too much forward play, maybe check by looking at crank pulley when someone pushes on pedal, and try to pull pulley forward and back. I thought maybe you could have someone under truck with engine stopped. Have rear wheels safely jack standed up. Then man in truck could put transmission in gear. Then if you try to turn rear axle shaft (in 2wd mode) it should not be able to turn. Have man in cab disengage clutch then you should be able to turn shaft (although a bit hard because you are turning gears in transmission). Just bouncing ideas off wall. Don't write my email because my computer is probably full of viruses.

CLOSURE: I gave up and took the truck to a repair shop. They hooked the power bleeder to the system and they could here air being sucked into the system through the new master cylinder that I had replaced. They installed another new master cylinder supposedly a better quality one than I purchased at my local parts store, they bled the system, and now the truck is back on the road.

Moral of the story.......................... When your brakes need doing take it in to the shop!!! They are a tad more important than the clutch with air.