Cooling fan always on, never overheatingermostat

Affecting a 1996 4Runner, 2.7 L, 2WD Here's the long version of the story.

We just got back from a year long trip overseas. The friend caring for the house and cars took the 4Runner per instructions to get coolant changed. This she did at a Jiffy Lube type place. We got home a week ago and I was looking at the 4Runner coolant overflow reservoir and saw rust in the bottom and what looked like water! WTF?! Dumped the coolant via the radiator drain petcock and there was no glycol, just what felt and looked like water and some rusty water came out near the end, too. Radiator cap was rusty inside, upper and lower hoses had a gritty rust build up. Thermostat was covered with a rusty varnish that chipped off when dry. Seems like the place didn't put in glycol with water, and that's a seperate issue with the shop, but back to the problem. Pushed the truck out onto the driveway and with hose blasted a hard stream where the thermostat fits and flushed engine out the upper hose fitting, and reversed, did the same water flush from radiator fill to drain out the lower hose and upper hose attachments in various set-ups to flush what could come out. I then stuck in a bottle of Prestone radiator cleaner (sodium citrate) and made up difference with water after changing thermostat and been driving around. Our friend said the temp never raised up ever when driving the truck around, and the same now; still at same place it's always been. I noticed that after running the upper hose is hot, lower hose cold. Upper radiator is hot, lower radiator is cold, and, the fan is always on from the moement the truck is started. Like I said, the temp gauge has never shown anything higher thgen a point just under halfway.

The questions are this: shouldn't the cooling fan come on only when the temp raises to a certain point? What's up with the bottom of the radiator and lower hose being cold and the top hose and radiator being hot? Shouldn't there be more heat showing on the temp gauge? Think the water pump is affected?

Thanks in advance

Reply to
1 of the Masses
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The engine temperature is controlled by the thermostat. You may need a new 'stat. Be sure to get one with the original set point, not a lower set point. The engine electronic controls need to see full engine temperature. The lower part of the radiator is supposed to be cooler than the upper part...that cool water goes into the engine and carries heat back to the top of the radiator. The thermostat is a valve that admits enough cool water to the engine to keep the engine temperature constant, and sends enough hot water to the radiator for cooling.

Do you now have 50-50 antifreeze & water in the system?

Is your fan electric or engine-driven? If engine driven, the clutch should let the fan spin freely when cool, but engage when hot. It'll turn all the time when the engine is on, but not full engine speed until hot. If electric, you may need a new fan relay.

Ken

Reply to
Ken Shelton

Ken

Mnay thanks for the reply and excellent info! I must have overheated my brain; I left out some info. Did change the thermostat, but before that, tested old and new in boiling water to check temp when they start to open. Both old and new opened within 6 degrees F of each other. I never really checked the radiator temps before this event, but that's excellent news that the radiator temp variation between the top and bottom is normal (remember I admitted that I had overheated my own control valve located between my ears). Currently still running sodium citrate based flush with distilled water till I accumalate 3-4 hours total running time per the directions however, I have doubts that it'll make difference. Your thoughts? I want to get all the rust deposits out and have doubts on citric acid's ability. Will dump, disassemble, flush and refill with 50/50 shortly. Maybe I'll run a sodium hydroxide based flush next? The engine has a belt-driven fan with a clutch that increases the fan speed on demand. I have thought about converting to an electric fan for the obvious reasons. Did check the fan clutch in the meantime and all is as it's supposed to be. Still can't believe the engine isn't running hotter then it is.

Ken Shelton wrote in news:sZmdnXfQ4INF2Z snipped-for-privacy@cablespeedwa.com:

Reply to
1 of the Masses

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