Dual Battery for Hilux

Can anyone direct me to a good source on adding a second battery to a Hilux... Pro's / con's hints and tips...

Thanks

Reply to
Razzle
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As far as the hardware needed for isolating one battery from another (which you might want to do), you'll probably get some good ideas in rec.boats. And, there might be some info here - I haven't looked past this page:

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Reply to
Doug Kanter

As to the battery tray, go look in the junkyard or the parts catalogs - most Diesel trucks have dual batteries, and you can use the same tray and braces which will bolt right in.

Of course, they usually fill that convenient empty space in a gasoline engine vehicle (at least on the USA spec models) with emission control junk that will need to be moved.

Then you need a charging isolator - a diode isolator is the least trouble, but takes a bit more work to install because you need to relocate the alternator voltage sense lead. Any shop that works on motorhomes or camping trailers will be familiar with them.

A simple solenoid isolator will work, but you need to check the specs and make sure it's a continuous duty solenoid. A Ford starter solenoid looks identical, but it'll go up in smoke if left on constantly.

Hints and tips:

Most deep-cycle batteries are NOT maintenance free, no matter what the label says. Then again, regular 'Maintenance Free' car batteries still need to be checked and topped off with -distilled- water (not tap water) once a year, but deep-cycles two or three times.

Deep-cycle batteries should be charged at a slightly lower float voltage than a starting battery (by a quarter volt or so) which is why mains powered chargers have a switch - but you can't adjust the car's integrated voltage regulator, so the deep-cycle battery will slightly overcharge and will boil off a bit more water when used in that duty.

You fill to where the water touches the bottom of the split-ring of the filler hole. Roughly 1/2 inch (10mm) from the top of the neck, to leave an air space.

You may have to cut through the battery top label and pry out the flush filler caps with a screwdriver, but it needs to be done occasionally - or the battery only lasts two years (and dies because it ran dry and the plates sulfated) instead of three to five.

Standard admonitions apply about wearing chemical goggles, heavy gloves and protective gear while working on wet batteries, as well as a big stock of baking soda on hand [20 pounds/10 Kg minimum - it will keep] for neutralizing acid spills and a good flowing water source within easy reach for emergency flushing.

(The last time I worked on stationary batteries without city water available, I hauled 10 5-gallon water bottles up there first, and rigged them on a low wall where I could tip them over and rinse off in the flow... If you get splashed with acid, time is your enemy.)

Battery acid can be nasty stuff - a hydrogen explosion inside one of the cells won't kill you, but it will pop the top cover off the battery and splash sulfuric acid around. And you only get two eyes from the factory, no refunds, no replacements.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Ive used audio giant 'Pheonix Gold' products before to add an auxillary battery. Its a very good clean set up with a deep sysle battery as an aux and a good sized normal style battery as your starting unit.

The split charge unit I used was great, did very well and we also added a

110 amp alternator to keep up with the draw.
Reply to
Scotty

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