One end is easy to remove. But, the other end connecting to relay rod is very hard to remove. Fatory manual says using Toyota SST. I removed the nut and coter pin. But the bolt can not be backed out with anything. I do not how the damper end connecting to the relay rod since I could moved the connection around, but just can get it off the rod. That dame thing seems just hanging there without separating from the relay rod. I'm stuck now. Any direction or pointer are appreciated.
Matt
Its likely a tapered stud like a tie rod end. Heat applied to the stud end can help, or try hitting the side of the repaly rod where the damper connects to or see if you can get a small tie rod end puller or pickle fork in there. Another option that may work is to put the nut back on loosely with the cotter pin and see if normal driving forces will work it free.
can help, or try hitting the side of the repaly rod where the damper connects to or see if you can get a small tie rod end puller or pickle fork in there. Another option that may
driving forces will work it free.
Thanks for your help. I used lots of wd40 and the hot wrench(propane)as you suggested; and hammered the stud but nothing budged. I don't know why? I looked at the stud and figured it is like you said tapering into the relay rod. Why it seals in there?? I'll try to get a tie end puller and see if I can get it off.
end can help, or try hitting the side of the repaly rod where the damper connects to or see if you can get a small tie rod end puller or pickle fork in there. Another option that may
normal driving forces will work it free.
Thanks for the info. What do you mean by "screwing up the threads"? You mean the threads on the stud or in the relay rod to which the steering damper connecting to. BTW, I've already stripped the threads on the stud because I thought I am going to replace it with a new damper anyway. I'm confused. Could you please elaborate a little more as of how to use air hammer on the threaded stud with nut on etc. Thanks,
Matt
You would normally leave the nut on the end of the threads to prevent from damaging them with a hammer, air or sledge, makes no difference. But since you have no intention of replacing it, makes no difference. You might also try tapping on the side of the relay rod where the tapered end goes through it. This causes the hole to distort briefly and can help pop it free, especially when combined with a pickle fork or tie rod end puller to put some upward force on it. With a puller, I often find if I leave it on, thight and periodically re-tighten it, with applications of heat, oil or paraffin wax melted into the stud, it'll often pop free on its own. The tapered stud if forced into the tapered hole by the nut and over time the metal surfaces most likely rust/bond together. That's normally a good thing, helps keep the steering parts, that are subject to a lot of shock loads, together. When you install the new dampener, apply some anti-sieze compound the the tapered end, it'll make it easier to remove next time.
damaging them with a hammer, air or sledge, makes no difference. But since you have no intention of replacing it, makes no difference. You might also try tapping on the side of
to distort briefly and can help pop it free, especially when combined with a pickle fork or tie rod end puller to put some upward force on it. With a puller, I often find if I
heat, oil or paraffin wax melted into the stud, it'll often pop free on its own. The tapered stud if forced into the tapered hole by the nut and over time the metal surfaces most
steering parts, that are subject to a lot of shock loads, together. When you install the new dampener, apply some anti-sieze compound the the tapered end, it'll make it easier to
Hi Roger & Jmach, I popped it out per your instructions. Suprisedly, there was no rust between the contacting surfaces. Actually, I sawcut the damper off at the stud (looked like very solid stinless steel) so that i could slide a heavy duty washer for holding the rod end puller which is not the special tool for this toyota damper. I don't know what kind of hell thing keeping this dame thing stuck in the rod. I was very frustrated that I wanted to take it to mechanic shop to get it out. Anyway, I was reliefed when it was out. I really appreciate you guys' help. BTW, I am going to install with Monroe damper, which only costs $30.00 & rubber boot protecting the cylinder rod(i don't know how much for this piece) instead of $142 from dealer. What kind of parts you guys used for this replacement.
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