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Hilux 2.8D 4X4 '89 electrical problem, help needed please

I have a Hilux 2.8 D 1989 4x4 with an electrical problem. This occurred while driving. First indication of a problem was loss of indicators and No Charge light came on. Drove it straight home fearing that if I turned it off it wouldn't start...proved to be true. I have checked fuses in the drivers side kick-panel, fuses & links in the engine bay, wiring loom visually, un-plugged and re-plugged wiring loom connections, wriggled everything I can find, all whilst having the key on and wipers, indicators etc turned on in case I got a flicker of something working. Here is what is (Y) & isn't (N) working:-

Hazard Y Horn Y Head/l Y Dome/l Y Fuel cut-off relay Y (audible click) Glow relay Y (audible click)

Tail/l N Parkers N Wipers N Temp/G N Brake/l N Heat/fan N Starter motor N

And the NO Charge light stays ON (at least it did when I could start it :-)

I have looked at the wiring loom that attaches to the ignition switch and found that the W-R wire is live, but the W is dead. The W wire takes power to the ignition switch from the battery via the 60 Amp fuse-link, so I tried to pull the link out to check it and it was really tight, end result... I busted it. Only got the plastic case & a bit of stretched copper link. The 80 Amp link for the Glow Plugs is next to it and also can't be removed.

Is there a trick to getting these links out?

Am I looking in the right area to solve this proble

Reply to
Phill
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Diesels are nice that way - no ignition needed to run, you just need to keep the fuel cutoff solenoid energized. And once you get the solenoid pulled in it will hold till the voltage gets really low.

If it's like the USA Spec cars, you have to dismount the fuse block and turn it over, then there are bolts and nuts and ring terminals on the bottom legs to remove and replace the big fuse links.

Disconnect the battery first.

Probably - When there's a lot of stuff out and the fuses all look good, another thing to check is the Fusible Link wires at the battery positive post adapter. They look like wires with funny molded boots over the ring terminal, and about 6" past the lug there is a molded splice connection and the wire visibly changes color and gauge.

These are to protect the harness wires from burning up if there's a dead short between the battery and the load on that line - the fuse block, the ignition switch, or the alternator.

If one of the links blows, you have to use the special parallel barrel splice crimp connector that comes with the link replacement kit (not the usual butt barrel splice) to the harness wire, and a special longer barrel ring crimp lug to the battery post to replace them - otherwise you get spot heating in the splices and it blows the fuse link wire again. -->--

Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Thank you Bruce. I am going to pull the fuse box out now ans see if that is the problem. The fuse link actually looked fine through the little window on top, but who knows what lurks beneath. It is Sunday here so can't get a new link until tomorrow. My battery is no longer in the engine bay. I have two mounted under the rear tray on a Hersey switch. The spliced in links that you refer to, is there one or two? The book shows only one, referred to as Main Link. I still have power to some circuits, so if there is only one it isn't that, but if there are two, then I may have to get into that area, which because of the battery re-positioning is a bit difficult. There are now twin oil filters sitting over the area where the wiring to the batteries joins the old harness.

Cheers, Phill.

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:

Reply to
Phill

The saga continued:- I have been working on it all day and still not got it working. I suspect that the wiring diagram in the Gregory's Manual may be slightly different to how the wiring really is.

There are 2 thick white wires coming from the 60A fusible link. One seems to go to the Starter Relay, and the other one goes to the Alternator.

The Gregory's manual shows that a white wire supplies power to the ignition switch, and that white wire is also supposed to come from the

60A fusible link (or one of the termination points of one of the two thick white wires, ie at the Alternator or Start Relay)

Problem is that the white wire on the Ignition Switch is thinner, and I can't find where it is terminated to power, (It is NOT at the Alternator, the Regulator or Start Relay) and THAT IS THE WIRE that has LOST POWER.

If I bypass that wire with a temporary jump wire from the Fusible Link to the Ignition Switch, systems are restored.

I really need to find out what the white wire that supplies power to the Ignition Switch is hooked up to. Possibly the Heater Relay or the Tail Light Relay??? Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thanks, Phill.

Phill wrote:

Reply to
Phill

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