ignition switch - 92 22re pickup, intermittent starting problem

This sounds like either a ground issue with your battery, or a bad starter solenoid. Does it make a loud "click" sound when you turn the key? If the lights just dim w/ no click, I'd give your battery terminals and clamps a good cleaning. Make sure the ground wire isn't corroded where it attaches to the frame, 2 different places IIRC. If it clicks, it's the solenoid. You can take out the starter and very easily replace the contact with a $10 part from toyota. I fixed my '88 PU with this, also my sister has a '95Corolla (same starter) and after fixing that contact a year ago, it's still cranking like new.

I really don't think the ignition switch has any kind of electronic check on the key, so I don't think that's your problem.

Thanks for your response. I have checked twice: the Battery, grounds to body and engine, peeled back wires to check for corrosion, felt for bad wire spots, connections to starter, reseated fuses.

It does not click, so its not the solenoid or brushes., is that correct?? I wiggle the key up and down HARD, WHILE holding it in the start position, then it cranks and starts. So, I believe its the ignition switch. Also, the ACC (sterero, clock) dimm, also ACC right there on the ign switch.

I suspect the contacts for the relay opeation that exist behind the key, (part of the wiring harness?) I am uncertian how hard it is to get to these, but I suspect its difficult, and expensive to replace.

I also sprayed some dry film lube in the keyhole, and stuck the key in and cranked it back and forth, pulled the key out and its covered with gunk, like someone had filled it with old grease or something. I suspect this contamination has seeped down to the contacts inside the switch. Since its intermittent, like up to 5% or 10% of the time now, its difficult to troubleshoot electronically, especially by myself.

Is there an easy way to >This sounds like either a ground issue with your battery, or a bad

not an expert on ignition switches by any means, but yes... if wiggling the key allows it to start every time you have this problem, it does sound like the contacts in the switch itself are funked. I've seen replacement ignition switches for Toyota tks on e-bay complete with new keys, etc, so it is possible to at least replace them. Not sure what it'd cost at the dealer to buy one, probably mucho $$$$.

Taking the dash off my truck has always been an incredible hassle, but the parts that cover the steering column aren't that tricky to get off. If you can remove the plastic, they sell an aerosol contact cleaner called "DeOxit" at electronics supply stores that might do the trick. If it's entirely an enclosed switch, and you can't find any way to take it apart, not sure what else to do but replace it... Don't think the relay is bad, as wiggling the key starts it. If you can't find DeOxit, you might try to spray some carb cleaner in the key hole and see if it clears out the greasy gunk. It dries without any residue, but is a solvent, so any factory lube will be nixed too.

My one and only key for my truck is severely filed down, you could easily stab someone with it. I tried to have the local dealer make me a new key, but it wouldn't work at all, especially in the door locks. I hate just having one key, but the alternative is replacing the ignition switch, so I'll deal with it when I lose it I guess.

Good luck.

My key was worn too = the door locks were a real pain to open, wigging up and down while turning worked sortof. I went to a real old locksmith, and he said I'll cut it and add (some #) to it. He cut the key a little fatter and tried to add the humps back. It works better than the original at opening the doors, but is still not perfect. I had him make 3 of them and now I use the best one.

I am going to see how far I can disasemble /clean it, thanks for the input.

Yep. You need a new switch. Assuming it's the same type as mine, with the key in the dash, it's not all that hard to get too, but Toyota does not make it easy so someone can't hot wire it.

1) Remove the plastic on the bottom side of the dash and around whe keyswitch.

2) The electrical contact parts are held into the back of the switch by a screw. It's really hard to get to that screw, so here is how to remove the entire lock.

3) Look on the other side of the steering column. The lock assy is clamped on by two smooth head bolts. I found the bolts are not very tight, but a set of reversing drill bits will back them out in a second. Or you can mess with them for hours with a file.

4) The lock assy will fall off. Take note on how the big pin slides and locks the wheel when the key is off.

5) Unplug the keyswitch from from the electrical system.

6) You will notice a small screw on the back on the lock. Remove the screw and the electrical contact part will fall out. Replace with a new one from the dealer. It's keyed so you can only install the new one one way.( I think) Plug it back into the elecrtical system. At this point, you may want to try and start it to see if that fixed the problem.

7) Reinstall the lock assy to the steering column. Once again, note how it fits. I use a set of allen head bolts (5mm I think) to replace the smooth head bolts I drilled out. You don't want thoes falling out as you drive.

8) Reinstall all the plastic.

9) Test to make the the steering wheel locks and unlocks correctly. You don't want that locking up on you as you drive down the road. Safty first.

Is the ignition in the dash or on the column. It is easy to remove if it is in the dash.

Thanks for a very informative reply, I bet that little elec. contact part costs $%&#! $$$

Are you sure it's the switch? Symptoms sound more like the starter to me. (no turn no noise but the lights dim) I would check the starter contacts first. Starter is a bitch to remove/install but replacing the contacts is easy and adds another 125k miles to the starter. Just a thought.

someone correct me if I am wrong: turn key, goes click, no crank = bad battery, or ground, power, connections, etc.. or lastly starter contacts no click = solenoid or relay after you check the battery and cables no click, ACC dimms (just clock and stereo, not dash lights), wiggle key hard and it starts = ignition switch (me)

hope thats right and helps someone thanks for all the comments.