oil change on Tundra

Hi, I just bought a 2004 4WD Tundra. Looking at the location of the oil filter makes me wonder how to change it without making a mess. The filter is right above the engine skid plate. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Al __ Arold "Al" Green

Reply to
Arold "Al" Green
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On Sat, 16 Dec 2006 00:26:44 GMT, "Arold \"Al\" Green" found these unused words floating about:

Use one of the 'JAWS' type of filter removal tools. You can then tilt the filter so that very little oil escapes and slide it towards the tranny.

That skid plate also removes moderately easily, if you should choose.

Reply to
Sir F. A. Rien

Its best to remove the skid plate. A little bit of a pain, but makes it so much easier once its out of the way.

Reply to
Mike W

THe filter on my '05 is on top of the engine

Reply to
Noon-Air

They did that with the Tacoma, as well!

Reply to
Bonehenge

"Arold "Al" Green" didst type:

Simply remove the skid plate. There are two catch fingers in the front that will keep it from dropping when the 3 front bolts are removed so do them first. Then, while holding up the rear of the plate, remove the back two. To get the fingers to release, scoot the plate a little forward, up and the back to remove. Once off, the filter is a cinch to replace and what little mess drips on the frame can be easily wiped off.

Blah

Reply to
blah

Thanks for all the responses. Remove the skid plate seems to be the best choice. Al __ Arold "Al" Green

Reply to
Arold "Al" Green

Some folks hold a garbage bag under the filter and catch the oil drips. Other folks cut the top off 2 litre pop bottle so it fits under the filter and catch the drips in that. I remove the skid plate. Changing the oil every 5000 miles makes it not such a big deal.

Ken

Reply to
Ken Shelton

Filter Relocation Kit?? I've been thinking about doing one that brings it up to the firewall on the passenger side, but the oil lines are long and 'up higher', never was sure if that was a good idea or not...

RedForeman

Reply to
RedForeman

Altering the oiling system may void the warranty.

Reply to
B A R R Y

Seems like an awful lot of trouble and expense to do the service yourself... then what are you going to do with the old oil?? I take mine to the shop and have it serviced every 3,000 miles....its only $32 to get it done, and takes them less than 30 minutes...and they check and top off everything. I don't know about you, but for me to do everything they do, it would take me well over an hour, and cost $15 - $18 for the oil, filter, etc.... then I have to dispose of the used oil. Its not worth my time for me to even screw with it.... whats your time worth??

Reply to
Noon-Air

I change my oil myself because I enjoy working on my truck and don't ever consider it a waste of time. I have been using Perulator Pure One filters and Casterol. When you take to have it serviced it is harder to make choices. I've always changed oil every 3000 miles, and usually keep my vehicles to the 150,000 mark.

Reply to
Phisherman

No... the only choice is what mechanic will give you the very best quality workmanship. Chances are, they are already using the very best filters and oils.

My vehicles are usually getting their first clutch job at around 180,000 miles, and I start looking for a new vehicle around 280,000 - 300,000 miles.

Reply to
Noon-Air

So do I. Some folks find it relaxing and satisfying. If you hate this sort of thing, then you won't. I usually follow the oil changes with a wash, wax, vacuum, interior dust, and glass cleanings.

Other considerations: - I actually look at belts & hoses, brake and clutch fluid levels (wear indications), discolorations from leaks, coolant condition and color, etc... Most shops simply say they do this but simply pencil whip the form.

- I can use full synthetic oil for less than a shop can use regular oil.

- Old oil is easily disposed of when you use a capped drain pan. You just bring it back to the place you bought the oil and pour it into the used oil tank.

- I also rotate my tires and set air pressures. Again, for real, not pencil whipped. While the wheels are off, I can eyeball the brakes and anti-seize the lug nuts. Leaky shocks and struts are also apparent with the wheels off.

Many people actually think real mechanics do oil changes. They don't, a lesser paid "lube tech" does. During a "free" oil change, my local Jeep dealership destroyed every front-end grease boot on my '99 Wrangler with an air-powered grease gun, then completely denied it 45 minutes later. They couldn't explain the fresh grease all over the place! 8^(

I can change my own oil and rotate my tires on both of my vehicles, a '99 Wrangler Sport & '05 4x4 Tacoma, in about 90 minutes. This includes getting out and putting away the tools. Since both of my vehicles go ~

8000 miles a year, I do both at the same time, on a nice fall day, and a nice spring day. Fresh winter wiper blades on in fall, new "normal" blades in spring.

Add in the detailing, some cold microbrew, and it's a great way to spend a nice day.

Reply to
B A R R Y

Glad you have the time to do all that.... and that you do so few miles. My Tundra was purchased new a month and a half before Katrina and has over

43,000 miles on it already. It takes me approximately 3 hours to get it serviced at the shop($32), then take it to get it a bath($30 hand wash). Having the truck down for those 3 hours cost approximately $500 in gross reciepts for that morning. My Tundra is a service truck for my heating & air conditioning company.
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Reply to
Noon-Air

Do u do the windows and laundry 2

Reply to
;)

Damn Moon you must be raking up 1/2 Mil a year with all them reciepts.

Reply to
;)

Actually it comes out to about $160K - $180K a year gross, considering the months where folks don't *need* heat or cool, and rain-outs.

Reply to
Noon-Air

My math was off, I ran out of fingers, you need about 300k a year with all the high taxes to be comfy in Ca. or is my math still off.

Reply to
;)

Thats why live in south Mississippi.

Reply to
Noon-Air

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