oil change on Tundra

On Sat, 16 Dec 2006 00:26:44 GMT, "Arold \"Al\" Green"


Use one of the 'JAWS' type of filter removal tools. You can then tilt the
filter so that very little oil escapes and slide it towards the tranny.

That skid plate also removes moderately easily, if you should choose.

Its best to remove the skid plate.  A little bit of a pain, but makes it so
much easier once its out of the way.

THe filter on my '05 is on top of the engine

wrote:


They did that with the Tacoma, as well!  <G>

Simply remove the skid plate.  There are two catch fingers in the front that
will keep it from dropping when the 3 front bolts are removed so do them
first.  Then, while holding up the rear of the plate, remove the back two.
To get the fingers to release, scoot the plate a little forward, up and the
back to remove.  Once off, the filter is a cinch to replace and what little
mess drips on the frame can be easily wiped off.

Blah

Thanks for all the responses.  Remove the skid plate seems to be the
best choice.
Al
__
Arold "Al" Green

Arold "Al" Green wrote:

Some folks hold a garbage bag under the filter and catch the oil
drips.  Other folks cut the top off 2 litre pop bottle so it fits
under the filter and catch the drips in that.  I remove the skid
plate.  Changing the oil every 5000 miles makes it not such a big deal.


Ken

Arold "Al" Green wrote:

Filter Relocation Kit??  I've been thinking about doing one that brings
it up to the firewall on the passenger side, but the oil lines are long
and 'up higher', never was sure if that was a good idea or not...

RedForeman

RedForeman wrote:

Altering the oiling system may void the warranty.

Seems like an awful lot of trouble and expense to do the service yourself...
then what are you going to do with the old oil?? I take mine to the shop and
have it serviced every 3,000 miles....its only $32 to get it done, and takes
them less than 30 minutes...and they check and top off everything. I don't
know about you, but for me to do everything they do, it would take me well
over an hour, and cost $15 - $18 for the oil, filter, etc.... then I have to
dispose of the used oil.
Its not worth my time for me to even screw with it.... whats your time
worth??

wrote:


I change my oil myself because I enjoy working on my truck and don't
ever consider it a waste of time.  I have been using Perulator Pure
One filters and Casterol.  When you take to have it serviced it is
harder to make choices.   I've always changed oil every 3000 miles,
and usually keep my vehicles to the 150,000 mark.

No... the only choice is what mechanic will give you the very best quality
workmanship. Chances are, they are already using the very best filters and
oils.


My vehicles are usually getting their first clutch job at around 180,000
miles, and I start looking for a new vehicle around 280,000 - 300,000 miles.

Noon-Air wrote:

Shops usually use the cheapest oil and filters...the dealership will
use Toyota brand filters, though.  The oil is brought in by tank
truck, pumped into a storage tank, and often not the cleanest.  The
oil companies often produce their lowest quality oil (still meeting
industry minimum spec) for bulk sales.  Any aftermarket filter will
probably cost the shop about a buck, so maybe a half-buck is the
cost of making that filter.  As said elsewhere, the kid doing the
lube is likely the lowest paid and least-trained person in the place.

3000 mile oil changes on a modern engine with modern oil is a waste
of time, money, and precious oil.


Ken

You must be taking your vehicles to a "quick lube" or Sears or such.
My mechanic uses Purolater oil filters and Casterol... I watch him open the
containers of oil. For that matter, the only "bulk" tanks they have are for
the waste oil, and antifreeze. FWIW, the Toyota dealer here uses bulk oil
tanks.


Not with a service truck that gets rode hard on a daily basis.

Phisherman wrote:

So do I.  Some folks find it relaxing and satisfying.  If you hate this
sort of thing, then you won't.  <G>  I usually follow the oil changes
with a wash, wax, vacuum, interior dust, and glass cleanings.

Other considerations:
  - I actually look at belts & hoses, brake and clutch fluid levels
(wear indications), discolorations from leaks, coolant condition and
color,  etc...  Most shops simply say they do this but simply pencil
whip the form.

- I can use full synthetic oil for less than a shop can use regular oil.

- Old oil is easily disposed of when you use a capped drain pan.  You
just bring it back to the place you bought the oil and pour it into the
used oil tank.

- I also rotate my tires and set air pressures.  Again, for real, not
pencil whipped.  While the wheels are off, I can eyeball the brakes and
anti-seize the lug nuts.  Leaky shocks and struts are also apparent with
the wheels off.

Many people actually think real mechanics do oil changes.  They don't, a
lesser paid "lube tech" does.  During a "free" oil change, my local Jeep
dealership destroyed every front-end grease boot on my '99 Wrangler with
an air-powered grease gun, then completely denied it 45 minutes later.
They couldn't explain the fresh grease all over the place!  8^(

I can change my own oil and rotate my tires on both of my vehicles, a
'99 Wrangler Sport & '05 4x4 Tacoma, in about 90 minutes.  This includes
getting out and putting away the tools.  Since both of my vehicles go ~
8000 miles a year, I do both at the same time, on a nice fall day, and a
nice spring day.  Fresh winter wiper blades on in fall, new "normal"
blades in spring.

Add in the detailing, some cold microbrew, and it's a great way to spend

Glad you have the time to do all that.... and that you do so few miles. My
Tundra was purchased new a month and a half before Katrina and has over
43,000 miles on it already. It takes me approximately 3 hours to get it
serviced at the shop($32), then take it to get it a bath($30 hand wash).
Having the truck down for those 3 hours cost approximately $500 in gross
reciepts for that morning. My Tundra is a service truck for my heating & air
conditioning company.
http://new.photos.yahoo.com/noon_air/album/576460762351274778/photo/294928803769953025/5

Damn Moon you must be raking up 1/2 Mil a year with all them reciepts.

Actually it comes out to about $160K - $180K a year gross, considering the
months where folks don't *need* heat or cool, and rain-outs.

~

wash).

&

My math was off, I ran out of fingers, you need about 300k a year with all
the high taxes to be comfy in Ca. or is my math still off.