pro's n con's on tundra

What kind of mileage is the current owner claiming?

With 15K on the clock it's still new! for that year, brakes could need updating.

cant answer the mleage claim. its at a lexus dealership. the guy next door to me is a tech for lexus, and told me about it. they just took it in on trade, so its not even on the lot yet, BUT he did the inspection on it, and said it was in great shape.

Make sure the brake TSB has been done.

Check for metal flakes on the transmission dipstick... could indicate that it has been used for towing with OD engaged and portend failure.

--- Rich

If the brake TSB hasn't been done, and the truck is still within the 3-yr warranty, after you buy, claim that there's front brake judder when you brake. The TSB is for larger brake calipers, but it's a big job requiring a new backing plate, removal and renewal of the wheel bearings, etc.

If the truck is out of warranty, and you have brake vibration, inquire at TundraSolutions.com about what can be done. I'd install new top-quality rotors (OEM, Raybestos PG Plus, Brembo, or equal), get the rotors cryogenically treated, and use top-quality brake pads like Akebono, PBR (Axxis), or Porterfield. I wouldn't pay for the new caliper job.

The overdrive gear cluster wasn't the strongest. If you tow, don't tow in overdrive. When you renew the ATF, I'd suggest synthetic ATF. The 2001 uses Dexron-III ATF.

Do all the time-related maintenance...2-year coolant flush & renewal, 2-year brake fluid flush & renewal. The accessory drive belt often squeaks when cold...not a problem. The plastic dash often rattles when cold...formed ½" or ¾" round hard foam home window insulation jammed between the dash and windshield quiets that. The spark plugs are due at 30,000 miles, the timing belt is due at 90,000 miles. Oil changes every 5000. ATF complete flush and renewal at 30,000 is smart.

Ken

4 years old (almost 5) and only 15,000 miles?? Yeah, right, sure.

I would want to talk to the previous owner if at all possible, before the sale if you can, after the sale if you have to - track him (or her) down through the DMV if need be. It is entirely possible that is the actual mileage and the truck is a good deal. Like if he's in my situation where he gets to drive a Company Car or Truck 95% of the time, or he lives a half-mile from work and walks or bicycles there unless it's raining, or he was on active duty in Iraq.

But for a regular person doing regular daily driving for 5 years (the national average is creeping toward 15,000 miles a year), that averages out to 3,000 miles a year or 250 miles a month. In my humble opinion, that mileage figure for that year vehicle is impossibly, suspiciously low.

There's a decent chance that somebody along the sales chain clocked the odometer, either the car dealer that is selling it, the wholesale auto auction lot, or the dealer who took the truck in as a trade. Or with it that low, each dealer in the custody chain might have taken

5,000 - 10,000 miles off each to make more money at each step - "Honor Among Thieves" and all that, you know... ;-P

(When someone who's 60 tries to pass themselves off as 45, they might be able to convince you. But saying they're 19 just isn't going to work.)

If the truck checks out fine at another independent mechanic (pay for an inspection, and NOT a mechanic or facility associated with the selling dealer!!) he thinks the mileage is accurate when looking at the wear items, and the price is right, go for it. If you later want to track down the original owner to confirm the mileage, great. There may be a reasonable explanation...

But if you only find out later that the truck had 60,000 miles on it when he traded it in, you can get with your State DMV and make life hell for the dealer and wholesaler, whoever touched the car since it was traded in. Bring strong evidence of a rollback fraud to the State and they most likely will want to get to the bottom of it. You might even get a nice chunk of change back from the dealer(s) as restitution. ;-)

Even if it turns out to really have 40,000 to 60,000 miles on it, that's still "not even broken in yet" on the Toyota scale of 'you can drive it darned near forever if you follow the proper maintenance schedules'. It should go at least 120,000 to 150,000 without major problems.

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thanks for all the tips and inputs.

Ken, Are you sure on this? I have a 2001 Tundra and have changed all fluids to synthetic except trans as my owners manual says Type-T fluid. I'l like to change to syn on this but don't want to damage trans. Dave

Tundra didn't change to Type T-IV until 2003, but double-check on your dipstick (as long as you bought new and know it's the original).

--- Rich

Don't say that. I'm approaching 90k on my '03 :)

--- Rich

Both my 2001 owner's manual and the transmission dip stick say Dexron® II or Dexron III...Dexron-II hasn't been available for several years.

Ken

Ken, Wife's been in hospital so it took a while to check. My owner's manual and dipstick say Dexron II or III. I checked the service set I bought for the truck and it says Type-T IV so I was mistaken about where I got my info. I'm going to switch to synthetic Dexron III. Thanks for the tip, Dave

well the dealership finally put the trk out on lot, i looked at it, very nice, THEn the price, i laughed and told them they were smoking some bad crack and needed a new dealer. they wanted 26,650.00 for the 01 trd 4x4. told them i could buy a new 04 double cab for a few grand more, that they were crazy. so guess its gonna be a new ride instead of the used one. thanks all for your inputs

Yikes! If the miles are real.... it's STILL too much. I financed a total of 30k on my '03 2wd TRD... that includes tax/lic and 100k warranty.

--- Rich