problems with tundra brakes

I work part time at an auto shop. And we always hand torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench. I've even warped the rotors on my 89 toyota truck by hand tightening them with my toyota supplied lug wrench and I tried to tighten them evenly. So be sure to hand torque them, to about 80 to 90 ftlbs on steel wheels. When you cut them to try and save them the metal is thinner so will heat up faster. I just replace rotors after they warp. And I use the cheap chinese generic rotors and never had a problem with them if I torque them.

You might check the TSBs here and see if any apply.

There is a TSB to install the 2003 larger calipers, but Toyota only pays if you are within the 3-yr/36 month warranty period. They might pay for good customers after the warranty has expired. This is a big job. New wheels bearings are needed because the old ones are pulled to install new backing plates for the new calipers. Figure something like $1200. This is not at item for which a so-called extended warranty will pay ('cuz they aren't warranties; they're pre-paid repair contracts).

Two possibilities...get the next brake job done at a Toyota dealership and have them replace and replace the warped parts under their 1-yr service warranty until Toyota Motor Corp. agrees to pay for the TSB. Or, buy premium rotors and premium pads. I like Porterfield, Performance Friction, and Hawk pads. It also is very possible that the rotors are not warping. The brake judder you feel could be caused by other things...brake pad depositions on the rotor surface are one cause.

snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:

I second the Hawk pads. I tossed my brand new OEM pads and switched to Hawk performance pads. I am sure they won't last as long, but the great stopping performance is worth it.