Removing driveshaft from 1984 Toyota longbed

I'm in the process of removing my transmission, for a clutch job, and after unbolting the driveshaft from the differential flange (4 bolts/nuts), and removing the two bolts from the center bearing holder which is now loose...I'm finding that the driveshaft is not exactly falling off into my lap.

I'm trying to push the rear part of the driveshaft off from the differential flange and it is very tight, and won't budge. Some light taps with a hammer also aren't budging it. Before I start whacking it I want to ask if this is normal (the tightness) and if I need to disconnect the rear driveshaft also at it's front end(just after the center bearing holder). There are also 4 nuts/bolts at the front end that connect it to the propellor shaft (the part that ends up going into the rear of the transmission.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

jc

Reply to
jbclem
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If you're talking about where it bolts to the rear end...... WHACK the hell out of it on the outer edge of the flange. I'ts not unusual to find one stuck.

I would suggest not pulling the 2 drive shaft sections apart. (the front, from the back)

Unbolt the shaft at the tranny and drop it as a complete unit.

The shaft is splined where the 2 sections go togeather and can be a mother to come apart after several years of service. If the u-joints seem good, take the 2-piece shaft down as one unit.

fact, not fiction.

~:~ MarshMonster ~tranny tech~

Reply to
Marsh Monster

Thanks MM, that's the answer I was hoping for.

jc

bolts

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the

Reply to
jbclem

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No prob................. y/w

and, let us know how it turns out.

~:~ Marsh Monster ~:~

Reply to
Marsh Monster

Well, the driveshaft came out easily once I broke the surface tension (rust) with a few whacks to the rear flange. I have the impression this is the first time out for the shaft (180,000 miles) although I'm not sure the original clutch would have lasted that long.

At any rate, now on to removing the transmission, the pickup's on jack stands...not a lot of room under there.

Do you know if the exhaust pipe needs to be removed...I'm removing the bracket that holds it to the side of the transmission, but there isn't a lot of clearance there.

jc

Reply to
jbclem

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JC, Leave the exhaust alone!!!!

It's a bit of wiggle going back in with the unit, but it's definately doable, and those flange nuts are VERY likely going to strip on you if you go messing with them. Worse case scenario the studs will pull out of the flange and wipe out the threads in the flange in the process. I don't even consider dropping the exhaust on those units anymore. The time it takes to repair the stripped manifold or the stripped studs isn't worth it. True, it's a tight fit. Trust me, the unit will come down and go back in fairly simply with the exhaust still on the truck. Little to no cussing needed. Fact, not Fiction.

Some unsolicited advise........?......... DO NOT, repeat do not, let the weight of the tranny hang once you get all the bellhousing bolts out and start coming back off the clutch with the tranny. The front shaft will be supporting the weight and I've seen them bent because of it.

Do yerself a favor....you're going to need at least enough room under that thing to lay on your side and maneuver around. A minimum!! If you don't want to be cussing the entire process. Going back in (stabbing the unit) is going to prove that. Fact, not Fiction. So...if you can't get under there now and roll your body all the way over without bang'n something, fix the situation. You'll be glad you did.

any whoooo......

keep us posted

~:~ marsh ~sips his mushroom tea.....mmmm......good stuff~ ~:~

Reply to
Marsh Monster

Marsh, thanks for the unsolicited advice...that's just what I need to know. Can you tell me how heavy the transmission is? Can I pick it up? If I need to lie underneath and push it into place with my arms can I do this or is it too heavy. I've done this begore with VW transmissions, so that's my reference point. Also, how many nuts/bolts are there holding the transmission to the engine. I see two on the bottom, two more a few inches above these two, and the two that hold the starter in place. That's six...if there are more higher up on the bell housing I haven't seen them.

jc

few

that

a
Reply to
jbclem

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It is doable on yer back "pressing it" in.

As far as if YOU can, well, I'd suggest trying it next to the truck once to be sure. And, you WILL need a helper with some stamina with you to keep it level going in. (remember my other post about letting the weight hang)

It is doable if there's 2 of you there handling it.

There are 2 tranny bolts on the very top of the bellhousing. There's a bit of a trick to making these easy. Take the tranny crossmember off, then let the tranny hang down just enough to get onto the 2 top bolts with a long extension and socket. If the tranny hasn't been out before the bolts are going to be tight as hell. A suggestion. Sometimes those bolts are so tight that I have to use a 1/2" breaker bar on them. I get my extension and socket on the bolt, then stick on the breaker bar, then........... I use a 12" long, 1/2" extension with a socket on it. Use this to add leverage to your breaker bar. Think of it as an extension handle that you can slide onto the breaker bar. (yes, a piece of pipe will work) BE CAREFULL when busting those bolts loose if they're that tight. I've gotten several existing scars on my knuckles from those same units. Not all trucks are that tight. But, if this is the first time it's been out, they prob'ly are.

You should have 6 bellhousing bolts going into the eng. block.

2 starter bolts.

There should be 2 bolts on the front/lower section holding brackets on either side of the tranny. (looking at the lower bottom, front of tranny) These 2 bolts should be going through a metal dust cover.

The big trick is the top 2 bolts, and using enough extension to get to them, and using enough length on the handle of the breaker bar to pull on.

Be advised, I've broken my big ass 1/2" Snap-On ratchet several times over the years on these same bolts. And it's a long, beefy mother. So......use a 3/8 taiwan at yer own risk, but remember when yer pouring

that good liqour on that gashing wound........

marsh told yuh so.

lol

let us know how it works out.

~:~ marsh ~sips his crownroyal.....counts the scars on his knuckles~ ~:~

Reply to
Marsh Monster

Marsh,

When you say let the transmission hang down you're talking about after the rear trans mount bracket has been removed, and is there anything on the engine that I should disconnect since the engine will tilt up a bit when the trans is hanging down.

jc

this

a

six...if

Reply to
jbclem

====== ====== Sorry JC, I've been off the rooms for a couple days, just saw your post.

any whooooo....... if it's not to late, and the fan shroud ain't busted...................

yeah, just let the thing hang down low enough to get to the upper bell bolts. The fan clutch will hit the fan shroud if you let the thing hang too far. Not to mention there's a slight possibility of busting a heater hose...maybe.

any whooo........ I've never had either one of those go bad for me, but like I say, just let it come down far enough to get to the two top bolts. And.....yes, AFTER you take the rear (transmission) crossmember off the truck.

There's not a big worry on busting anything as long as your carefull. You'll be able to get on the two top bell bolts long before you're at the point of rupturing, busting, bangind, bending, or other wise fubarring anything.

hopefully the info wasn't too late......

a last note........ don't forget the original advise of not letting the weight of the tranny hang once you've started coming back with the unit. Don't wanna bend that input shaft.

let us know.....

~:~ marsh ~sips his crownroyal, takes a hit off his doobie........~ ~:~

Reply to
Marsh Monster

Hi Marsh,

Hope you're still tuned in.

I have the transmission out, and you were right...one of the upper bolts was a real bitch, I almost didn't get it out. Now I have the clutch and the flywheel off and I have a few more questions.

When I remove the real oil seal retainer ( to replace the seal), is there a gasket of any kind for the retainer...the manual doesn't show anything but it also doesn't say much about this. It also says very little about the clutch release bearing and the fork. There are two flimsy clips on the release bearing hub and they were each oriented in a different direction, but the drawing in the manual shows them both facing the same way. Does it matter at all which direction they point? And the fork itself doesn't seem to be attached to anything, except where it slips into the clips on the hub. On the other end of the fork it goes through the hole in the side of the transmission and it seems that only the rubber boot is securing it and keeping it from being completely loose...does this sound right?

One other thing, for the clutch cover there is a split in the year, up to 7/84 and 8/84 and later. My car has a 7/84 production date but I was send the later clutch cover(8/84 and up). I wonder if you know what the difference is, the old clutch cover seems to be about the same size as the new (but later) one...it looks a bit different but it is a difference brand so there are probably some manufacturing differences. Both the disk and the release bearing are the same for the earlier and later split, so the only other things that could have changed are the flywheel or the fork. Or does it matter, will the later clutch cover work in place of the earlier one?

I appreciate all your advice, it's been very helpful.

jc

trans

Reply to
jbclem

The early clutch disc and flywheel may be smaller.. I threw a 22re in my

94' P/U from an 87' Pickup, and just happened to have a brand new clutch from the 94' motor lying around, so i through the clutch from the 94' onto the 87 motor and it was quite a bit larger then the clutch that was originally on the 87' It works perfect.. So in answering you question (will the later clutch cover work in place of the earlier one?) The Pressure Plate inside the cover may be a different size.. If the pressure Plate is the same diameter,and it bolts right up... Use it..

Ian

Reply to
EasyE

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