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Tacoma hot start problem FIX!

There appears to be a common hot start problem with Toyota Tacoma trucks. I posted a message to this newsgroup almost a month ago and got several individuals to respond they had the same problem or to offer suggestions. A bright fellow who goes by samwise (and I believe it) came up with the solution.

If your Tacoma has trouble starting with the engine hot (usually at the gas station or a quick stop) you need to disconnect the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. This sensor is located on the air filter box, and is not the large MAF(Mass Air Flow) sensor. The connector to the IAT sensor only has two wires.

This will cause the check engine light to come one, but who cares. If you want, perhaps changing the sensor will fix the problem properly. I just disconnected it and my truck runs fine.

Thanks again to Samwise for the solution. I spent well over a thousand dollars at the Toyota dealer and they did nothing at all except charge me. I hope this solution works for you if you are experiencing he same problem. It's people like Samwise who make the newsgroups work!

Reply to
t.a.
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Hello from Samwise,

Well I researched the problem a little further by connecting an OBDII diagnostic tool to my truck and found that disconnecting the IAT tells the computer to run the engine more rich. I am pretty sure that the problem is a fuel delivery one during start and am going to proceed to have the fuel pressure checked, but the problem is that it is going to have to be checked while the problem is presenting itself. I have looked around for a fuel injection pressure tester and am having problems finding one that will fit on a Toyota. Toyota recommends that another Banjo fitting be fitted over the existing one on the fuel rail. This is a total pain in the butt compared to cars equipped with a Schrader valve. Not sure what Toyota was thinking on this one.

I was wondering if anyone else has solved the problem by replacing the fuel pump and or fuel pressure regulator?

Thanks,

Samwise.

Reply to
samwise_i

Hello from Samwise,

Well I researched the problem a little further by connecting an OBDII diagnostic tool to my truck and found that disconnecting the IAT tells the computer to run the engine more rich. I am pretty sure that the problem is a fuel delivery one during start and am going to proceed to have the fuel pressure checked, but the problem is that it is going to have to be checked while the problem is presenting itself. I have looked around for a fuel injection pressure tester and am having problems finding one that will fit on a Toyota. Toyota recommends that another Banjo fitting be fitted over the existing one on the fuel rail. This is a total pain in the butt compared to cars equipped with a Schrader valve. Not sure what Toyota was thinking on this one.

I was wondering if anyone else has solved the problem by replacing the fuel pump and or fuel pressure regulator?

Thanks,

Samwise.

Reply to
samwise_i

Not that problem, but I installed a fuel pressure sender on my 22RE engine. Pulled the fuel rail out, drilled and tapped the steel end plug for a pipe thread fitting then soldered in a right angle elbow of the right size to accept an electronic fuel pressure sender. Hooked that up to a gauge and now have fuel pressure readings on the dash. Also, shared that guage by adding a switch and a second pressure sender for my on-board air compressor tank, so I can also monitor the air pressure in it as well. Works quite nice and has proved to be quite handy for debugging a few problems and also seeing that I don't have a pressure problem at full throttle.

Reply to
Roger Brown

I just had my 1995 Toyota PU 22RE in for repair at the dealership and they said the Cold Start Injector was slow leaking drip drip drip - cause fuel line pressure to bleed off over time when the engine was off - when running the pressure was reading fine.

They replaced the Cold start injector assy ($150) and "Switch, Start Inj" ($134) with a final bill of $471 with labor, haz mat fees and all the other add-on charges and taxes. The parts fit in the palm of a 10 year's old (must be made out a gold or something...)

The truck IS starting a bit more reliably, but this afternoon it did play the crank crank crank game one time out of two short stops on a ten mile drive home... Yesterday was three stops and not a problem.

As to why ToadYoda might be thinking about with the recommendation to use a pain in the ass fitting... Probably the $100/Hr or more they charge for work in their service shop .... Best to have it too troublesome for others (spelled owners) to do it....

Is it better to Snipe or be Sniped ? TheSnipeAtdisplace-MindspringPeriodCom < AntiSPAM spelling

Reply to
TheSnipe at anti-spamdotmemindspringdotmecom

Could have also pulled the CS injector out and sent it off to RC Engineering or Cruzin and had it cleaned and tested, would have cost about $25:

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Reply to
Roger Brown

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