TECH: 2000 Tundra 4WD front rotor removal

I have the notorious rotor warp that the 2000's were plagued with. Front vibration when brakes are applied, doesn't exist cold but is there once they warm up and gets progressively worse as they get hotter. I thought I would try and have them surfaced and get new brakes before buying new rotors.

How hard are these to pull? Any special tools req'd? Any other advice?

Mike in DFW

Reply to
mike
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There was a bulletin issued advising the replacement of rotors, pads, and calipers to fix the warping issue. The updated calipers are a little bigger, and supposedly that accounted for the difference. However, the thing that really made the job a bear is the new dust covers that are also issued to accomodate the larger calipers. To replace them, you have to pull the front bearings apart. It's quite a job. Some customers have asked me to just 'modify' their existing dust covers, though, to save them some money on the labor side of the job, and as far as I know there haven't been any problems. To answer the other part of your question, the rotors are extremely easy to get off. Just remove the caliper and you're in business.

Reply to
qslim

Thanks for the quick response. I bought my truck when it was just out of warranty. I have read many accounts from other 2000 owners with the same symptoms. A lot of them believe this was serious enough to warrant a recall but it hasn't happened yet.

It sounds like you have some experience with this issue. Do you think new brake pads and rotor sufacing would fix my problem or am I just spinning my wheels? Most other owners claim their problems return in less than 200 miles. What do you think?

Reply to
mike

I don't think machining the rotors will do much,and the symptoms certainly do return if you don't replace the calipers per the TSB. I've seen it happen a hundred times. The job isn't too bad if you skip replacing the dust cover. I think the dealer I work for only charges a few hours of labor for changing the rotors, calipers, and trimming the cover. If you do want the dust cover replaced you could expect more like 7+ hours to do the bearings and all that.

Reply to
qslim

Thats what I was afraid of. I really wish Toyota would step up and take responsibility for the bad design of the 2000 model brake system. Maybe I can get a newer set of calipers of of a wrecked Tundra? I am sure the new parts from the delaer are astronomically priced

Thanks for that info. Mike

Reply to
mike

Some people with the early calipers never have the brake judder. Try very high quality pads, maybe Hawk or Performance Friction.

Resurfacing the rotors is iffy. If much material is removed, while still within spec, the thinned rotor cannot handle heat well. Try it.

Ken

Reply to
Ken Shelton

Thanks, I will give that a shot. I was doing more research today and it looks like later year models are having similar symptoms. Some of the theories I read would indicate that the rotors are getting too hot because the brakes weren't large enough to dissipate the heat properly. Also read that the new dust plates have a larger air scoop to increase cooling.

So maybe high quality pads will help the brakes run cooler? My brakes are smooth as silk for about the first mile or two. They get gradually worse as the brakes get hotter.

Reply to
mike

I ordered new Bembro rotors and higher quality ceramic Satisfaction pads that are engineered to cool faster in between braking and transfer less heat to the rotors.

Also is a school of thought that the rear brakes are out of adjustment and this conditon creates an "unbalanced" braking condition that places more braking force on the front than needed. The cure? Use the parking brake all the time and /or adjust the rear brakes manually with the star adjustment.

Anyone noticed improvement as a result of increased parking brake use?

Reply to
mike

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