TRD vs Centerforce I Clutch (for 1995 3.4L V6 Taco)

I'm looking at purchasing a new clutch and was hoping to get some feedback on what people here prefer. I was going to go with the Centerforce I, but came across some reviews that weren't too keen on it. But I have yet to hear anything about the TRD clutch. I'm looking at buying the Kit (set of plate/disc), plus the throw-out bearing and a new master cylinder. Comparing prices alone I could save about $150 by going with the Centerforce clutch. Plus I've read some past post about a "Spec Kevlar clutch"? Anyone have any opinions on that one?

The reason I'm looking at a 'performance' clutch is that this will be the third clutch to go in this truck. Both the previous two were stock clutches, with the second going in at about 80k miles, and now this second going out at about 155k miles. I'd like to find one that will last at least 100k miles before changing, preferably 150k+ like it lasted in my Dodge car I had when I was a kid.

I have not done any real mods to the truck other than putting the K&N FIPK (this made a noticeable difference in driving) on it and a new cat/exhaust. The tires are still stock size (31's I think), and no lift on it.

Also, I don't know much about fuel injectors, but I think I've seen where you can buy new or remanufactured. Does it really make a difference which I buy there? I'm not looking at buying anything other than stock there as I don't want to send in my computer and have it re-tuned to account for differences in gas/air mixture.

Thanks,

Tony B.

Reply to
Tony
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This probably won't be any help, but my 1988 Toyota pickup with a 22R and 4-speed still has the original clutch at 180,000 miles. No slip, still chirps the tires when shifting into second gear (if I try ). I've always worried about the tall 1st gear in the 4-speed trans, and the fact that I sometimes have to slip the clutch to take off on an uphill, but no problem yet...

Reply to
TOM

I put the TRD kit on at around 125k miles. Much "grabbier" than the stock and I believe it's about 1/2 inchj larger diameter and apparently the factory flywheel will accomodate that. I like it but TRD doesn't actually manufacture anything (to my knowledge) so for all we knwo this is a Centerforce clutch rebranded by TRD? Overall I'm happy with it. Got it online from Sterling McCall Toyota (in Houston, as am I) so the disc, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearing all came for about $450 in one package.

Fuel >I'm looking at purchasing a new clutch and was hoping to get some feedback

Reply to
cmoschip

cetnerforce clutches arent bad I just dont think they are a great application for trucks. they are meant for racng where they grip more as rpm goes up (dragracing, rev motor, let clutch go).

lots of truck guys have them and are happy...

I was looking into spec kevlar but their clamp loads were too big. What motor do you have?

I ended up getting a southbend clutch kevlar clutch and exedy pressure plate

either way get the kit with bearings and consider changing the trans and crank seal.

Matt

Reply to
L

Thanks CMOS for the info. Glad to hear someone here has tried the TRD kit and now posted thoughts! I'll look into the fuel injectors you mentioned as well. Gives me a good idea where to go now.

Just out of curiosity, what do you mean by 'grabbier'?

Tony

Reply to
Tony B.

Thanks Matt for the info.

The engine on this is the 3.4L V6. I'm glad to get your thoughts on the Centerforce, there were some amazingly bad reviews on them for other cars. But I wanted to see what people thought about them specifically for Taco's or Toyota trucks in general like you mentioned here. Not being a mechanic I really need the input from people before dumping money down and possibly being disappointed with the purchase down the road.

I've heard of Exedy, and was also looking at them. But not knowing the name kind of tossed them aside. Guess I'll give them another look now!

Tony

Reply to
Tony B.

Well glad someone still has an original clutch! Wish I did. Not like I drive it 'that' hard (or that it's my first car with a stick).

Reply to
Tony B.

Well glad someone still has an original clutch! Wish I did. Not like I drive it 'that' hard (or that it's my first car with a stick).

Reply to
Tony B.

I have no experience with the 3.4l .... I personally would stay away from the centerforce but doubt they will do harm ... at worst they wont live up to the hype...

Exedy makes excellent pressure plates and probably clutches. IMO they supply toyota. Also are used for racing ..

What clutch to get is tough ... an organic clutch will usually work just fine. You can go ceramic but its not meant for a truck ... kevlar is possible with little side effects and will last long.

check southbendclutch and spec clutch @ clutchexpress they can hook you up with kevlar. Dont exceed the salve cylinders rating and you will be fine

Matt

Reply to
L

It takes a little smoother foot than with the factory clutch - when I let the pedal out the first time it was almost like teaching a kid to drive for the first couple of shifts - good engagement over a shorter stroke of the pedal (it seems to me)

Reply to
cmoschip

Thanks Cmos.

BTW, I ended up going with a Downey clutch. Called around to TRD and what they were using, some mix of plate/disc, because people were complaining about the noise in traffic (but the combo was way too expensive). Called Downey and they guy gave me his take on clutches, more than I understood, but followed some of it. He basically convinced me.

Well now it's in and I have to say it 'grabs' very well in all gears, and what appears to be at all the RPM's I've thrown at it so far. But not so much so that just a slight release of the pedal engages it. What my mechanic told me that the previous job done on the clutch, it appeared that they did not machine the flywheel(?). I'm guessing that's what he meat as I had to have a translator explain it. Is that a pretty typical process to do while changing out clutches? I've read only a little bit on this and it seems to be that should be done, or sand it lightly with a medium grit sandpaper. Well I replaced the pilot bearing as well, since it was cheap and figured might as well. Not sure what life expectancy is on these, but would've likely replaced that as well if it calls for it since I'm sitting just over

150k now.

So far I'm very happy with the clutch.

Reply to
Tony B.

cant go wrong with a Downey clutch ....

the flywheel only has to be machined when its warped, burnt or damaged . Either way, its better to grind it and you can only do that so many times until its gone ;)

some toy wheels have a recess that must be retained....

pilot bearing will last as long as the clutch and its a good idea to change as well as TO bearing and trans and crank seal

Matt

Reply to
L

Ah cool, thanks for the info Matt.

Would you happen to have any info on the trans and crank seal? I'm not sure what those are.

I did replace the Master and Slave cylinders, as well as the TO bearing.

Reply to
Tony B.

the crank seal seals the crank on the tranny side .. the transmission seal seals the trans to the clutch side .... both are good candiates to change when the tranny is off ..

changeing the cylinders seems overkill unless they leak or stuck

Matt

Reply to
L

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