I'm a guy who often feels ripped off at garages- so I have to be sure work is really needed.
I have a '04 Tacoma. I've been doing oil changes regularly, though a big late.
I'm now just over 60,000 miles and got from Toyota a list of work to do including, "4-wheel alignment/balance & rotate tires", "timing belt replacement" and "pressurized fuel injector service".
I have had the tires rotated but what about that 4-wheel alignment/balance? I don't use the 4-wheel very often. I've never had this service done.
I don't believe the truck has a timing belt, or does it? If it does, is it needed this soon?
How about the fuel injector service? I've asked about this before, here- and few people encouraged me to proceed with it. I sometimes add gas additives.
I'd probably do everything they say if these services weren't so expensive.
You should run in 4 wheel a minimum of 20 miles a month to keep the front differential and transfer case from gunking. OR so many 4x4 'experts' have told me.
Notice any uneven wear, bounce or ??? If not, then your balance should be OK. Rotating every other oil change is a good idea.
It should be checked - I believe that this is an inteference engine and ... !
Hope you've been lubing the propeller shaft and bearings and changing the differentials and Xfer case fluids.
I'm surprized thay didn't go for Spark Plugs - they usually start pushing that at 40K, but the 'regular' plugs usually start giving out at 60K. Premiums probably aren't worth the extra as they're 'recommended' for 60K.
What's the cost of service vs a new truck, especially if you've added to yours with accessories, cap, liner, towing ... ???
A 4-wheel alignment has nothing to do with 4-wheel drive. It is also not possible to do a 4-wheel alignment on your truck as there are no adjustments on the rear axle. If you haven't had the tires balanced since new it MIGHT be needed BUT if you don't feel any vibration at highway speeds it is probably not needed.
What engine ? The V-6 has a timing belt, the 4 cyl has a chain. The timing belt is recomended for replacement at 60,000 miles.
Also due at 60,000 miles are the following: engine coolant, trans fluid, diff fluids, and spark plugs. If you do the plugs it would be wise to also replace the wires.
If it were my truck I would skip this service and run a tank of GOOD fuel injector cleaner.
If you are mechanicaly inclined you could do most of the work yourself and save alot of money.
My '99 manual says timing belt change recommended at 90,000 for the 3.4 V6. The earlier 3.0 V6 was recommended at 60,000. It is a good idea to replace the water pump when replacing the belt.
The 4 cylinder has a chain which is probably good for at least 135,000. On the earlier R22 and R22RE the plastic guides disintegrated which allowed the chain to wear a groove in the water pump housing causing the water and oil to mix.
3.4 | V6. The earlier 3.0 V6 was recommended at 60,000. It is a good idea to | replace the water pump when replacing the belt. | | The 4 cylinder has a chain which is probably good for at least
135,000. | On the earlier R22 and R22RE the plastic guides disintegrated which | allowed the chain to wear a groove in the water pump housing causing the | water and oil to mix. | | -- | OldPhart | |
4 Wheel Alignment is totally separate from the 4-Wheel-Drive system
- they check to make sure that the front and rear wheels are aligned
*with each other*.
With a solid rear axle truck a full 4 wheel alignment usually isn't necessary, but you do have to make sure that the rear axle is still straight and square with the frame.
If you hit a stump or rock or curb or parking bumper really hard you can shear the locating bolt/pin between the center of the leaf springs and the axle spring perches, and the axle/U-bolts can slide fore/aft on the spring, which will throw off the alignment.
Right. Either go play on a dirt road outside of town once a month with an "Automatic" system, or put the transfer case in 4WD with the manual front locking hubs left in the open position - or lock the hubs and leave the transfer case in 2WD every other month. You need to stir up the lube and get it warm.
Even if it's the 4 with a timing chain, they don't live forever.
200K is a reasonable life expectancy. But they get noisy from bad chain tensioners and guides long before that starts causing damage, you just need a mechanic with a good ear to catch it before it becomes terminal.
Chemical puffery like transmission flushes or fuel injector cleaning is only needed if you have a problem, or you've been severely neglecting the vehicle using crap gas for the whole time - take the truck to Mexico and use Pemex from a drum... In the USA, even 'generic' gasoline from the independent stations has enough detergent in it to prevent big problems.
The one thing they don't push is flushing the brake fluid, that should be done every two or three years - but that's the exact same thing as a thorough brake bleeding with fresh fluid. (But if they call it a brake system "flush" they can "flush" more money out of your wallet with a straight face.)
Some of them are needed, but not as often as they push them and some only if the vehicle has been abused.
The best part is seeing the two-faced companies that sell the equipment for the "flushing services" - they make two sets of almost identical brochures with matching layout and artwork. One is aimed at consumers touting the alleged benefits to vehicle life, and the other for the shops touting them as a "Profit Center" to make an easy $200 for each service with a half hour of labor and $5 in supplies.
Stay with the manufacturer's schedule for service - the shops still want people to come in for 3,000 mile oil changes, they make much more money than if you only come in every 5,000 or 7,500. The service recommendations are often in their best interest and not yours.
I usually go to Toyota for oil change- but the other day I went to a competitor to Jiffy Lube- SpeedyLube or something like that. The guys there seemed intelligent and talkative- I usually don't make it by 3,000- more like 4,000. They told me that although the manual might say 5-7,000 it really MUST be done by 3,000- or, if I go longer, I MUST use the much more expensive oil.
The Toyota dealer also said I should do it at 3,000- but didn't mention that going longer is OK if I use fancy oil.
I suppose this stuff is elementary to most people but I've always had a mental block when it comes to understanding auto mechanics.
Also, recently I got a "check engine" light problem. A dealer charged $80 to investigate and tell me which one failed. Apparently it's not urgent to change this particular one- but I'll do it soon- they say that if if it isn't fixed the truck won't pass inspection in Mass. as that's how the inspectors tell if the emissions are OK, not by putting a hose up the tailpipe as they used to do. They didn't tell me that they'd deduct that charge from the total charge of $280- so I bitched that it seemed like a stiff charge just to tell me that. Even so, $280 to replace that part must be one of their more profitable repairs.
All things considered, I like this '04 Tacoma- it's a stripped down vehicle, it came with a tape deck! (I wasn't happy with that)- but my goal in the purchase was to get a truck that would be relatively low maintenance as I'll keep it for its full life. With my Ford F150, it seemed that I was always replacing brakes and mufflers, etc.- while friends with Tacomas said they do nothing but change oil! One other minor but lame feature of this truck is that the speedometer can only measure to the nearest mile, not the nearest tenth of a mile- I can't imagine they save much but leaving off the tenths of a mile part.
I hope those many check engine light sensors don't keep failing given the cost of replacement!
I don't think you know what they are ... it's electronic monitoring of many things including vacuum leaks, pollution valves and operating sensors, etc.
BTW, on the first HOT day of the year, IF you've just topped off you tank, you may get a "Check Engine". It's some fuel condensing in the EGR vacuum area. If it doesn't go off when you've used 1/4 tank (3/4 full), park tail down on a hill at 1/4 full. That should drain th hoses and reset the warning.
THREE such 'warnings' and all blown off by the dealer (with charging!) as - you have a bad gas cap! Moved and this new dealer in Astoria gave me the real skinny!
Jiffy Lube is a silly place to take a vehicle. Ask everyone you know if they have a mechanic they've been happy with for years. If anyone says "Jiffy Lube" or similar, thank them and forget their suggestion. Find yourself a mechanic that does NOT make you feel ripped off. They do exist.
If -=all=- you need is a drain, filter and fill it's OK. For my 4x4,As I also want to lube the shaft and joints and -=check=- the Xfer and differentials as a precaution, I use Toyota on the 6 month changs - do the others myself.
Ohh ... you mean like Desert Toybloater ??? The same people who park your vehicle after service 'somewhere on the lot' when it's 110 and are too busy to 'find' it?
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