1600 -> 1641

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Where? Flow-bench? Carb? Cooling? If the latter, the volume is meaningless without pressure. Failure to install all of the tin-ware typically increases the amount of air delivered by the blower since it's working against less pressure, but the end result is a hotter running engine.

As the engine heats up it requires more pressure to push the same amount of air through the hotter fins. Given the nature of air -- easily compressed -- it takes only a surprisingly small amount of leakage to reduce the efficiency of the VW's cooling system by as much as half.

-Bob Hoover

Reply to
veeduber
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Bob, I have read the same thing ever since I have been reading this group. I like it. I have used Pertronix, and was very pleased with the results. A relatively quick and easy "upgrade". I recall a couple of years back, you put a bug in all of our ears about modifying a Toyota Distributor and using the igintion system for a Beetle. I would love to have a full explanation on the Toyota Ignition sytem modification and a basic parts list (what to scavenge form the wreckin' yard). Care to share a mostly complete or even a complete version of that mod? email is fine if so. If not,.........well I understand. I will experiment on my own if necessary. The folks on the group would likely be very appreciative of that mod also.

By the way, those reading in may want to know that these Toyota ignition parts can be more expensive even in a wrecking yard than a VW distributor and ignition set, by quite a bit. Maybe double or more.........I love the way they work though, and am simply driven to try it on a Bug for my next build-up. (the DUNE BUGGY engine)

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MUADIB®

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If A Quiz is Quizical, What is a test?

The Peacemaking Meeting scheduled for today has been cancelled due to a conflict.

Reply to
MUADIB®

Let me tag onto the question with something I ran across in a journal under a different topic - the issue was "stuffing", where too much air into convoluted system reduced efficiency by causing drag on the impellor, and in the end, it did not increase flow.

I do not know if any of the available pulleys will make the ACVW behave that way.

Reply to
johnboy

If the he changed the cylinders without machining the heads (there was/is a slip in option) then you will be best to get rid of the cylinders as they will again warp, just like any thin metal when heated.

The 1776 is my opinion is the best option for over sizing. I have built too many to remember and never had any problems. My Type 2 runs a 1776 with a pair of Weber 40IDFs and I expect it to be putting out about 100bhp. It is always fun when leaving VanFest to be in the fast lane on the M5 doing about

20mph more than the other vans. In a Beetle you'll be able to lighten the flywheel giving faster acceleration and fit a higher lift cam, giving more top power that I can't in a heavy vehicle like a fully loaded crew cab.

You could also consider a longer stroke crank which has only one down side, which is the expense. Get a 74 or 78mm, then you'll be looking at 1905cc or

2007cc and know that you're not nearing the edge of the engine's limits thereby giving you an engine that will last for a number of years trouble free.

Gaz

Reply to
Gaz Pike

Oh, one point, do get your compression ratio right. You'll need no more than 7.6:1. You'll find the calculations at the end of the Building a Performance Engine link on the Ramva Index. 7.6:1 is the most you can go using regular unleaded (95RON).

Gaz

Reply to
Gaz Pike

Bob,

Do you think that the flaps inside the cooling are also important to increase the air pressure? The speed of the air on the heads should be higher with the flaps on consequently more efficient. I put the flaps again during the last rebuilt. I do believe that here in Portugal I have the only rebuilt engine, with flaps and thermostat on.

Joao

72 Super 1302
Reply to
Joao Eliseu

The flaps are CRITICAL, they separate the cylinder side from the head side cooling area, so that the air that is blown over the head fins, will not escape the easiest route and go over the cylinders. The flaps, when fully open, form airDAMS that control the direction of airflow.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

That is true...but when we explain it to a self called mechanic they say that it is not necessary. Most of them never read a manual and learn with the mistakes made on our cars.

Joao

72 Super 1302
Reply to
Joao Eliseu

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They are an absolute necessity for long-term reliability.

Use Google's Advanced Search function with veeduber as the author and air vanes as the Exact Phrase. This is not a new topic; you should get a lot of hits.

-Bob Hoover

Reply to
veeduber

I have become a believer, which I don't think I ever really did not believe, just never had flaps in my cooling system. I have tracked down a set of flaps to install in my rebuild. I have just the flaps as of now and will keep looking for the rest of the components. I plan on installing the flaps locked open(DUH) till I get the other parts.

Free advice is worth what you pay for it. Solid information and shared wisdom are priceless. There is a big difference, and the road to being able to tell the difference is costly in both wasted time and money. The quote, "A fool and his money are soon parted." is alive and well in this day and it thrives in the automotive upgrade world. With words like "Cool", "Trick" and "High Perfomance" seathing from every crack and crevasse called the "Aftermarket", there is plenty of JUNK to divide you from your money and never give you the performance you were looking for. We have parts distributors within this group who are not out to just take your money and will offer you sound advice when dealing with them and they will show you how to get where you want to be, though you may not like the "Real" price it will take to get there. But is made worth the price by the true gains in performance.

Been there, Done that! I have the empty wallet to prove it and an engine that is in pieces, fixing the foolishness that built it the first time, with roughly 1000 miles on its clock. It is now undergoing emergency surgury to cure many of the exact things Veeduber, Jan, John C., Jake, Joey, Tim and others have been preaching for many years. I began to listen to my engine pleading with me to fix it before it died due to heat and foolishness on my part.

All the mistakes I made have been filed neatly under Lessons learned in the folder labeled STUPID! Meaning I was stupid for not taking solid advice the first time through.

Reply to
TerryB

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