1972 bug -carburation problems part deux

Yes, I am here again due to an unsuccessful life with my bug's hesitations. Now, to describe the simptoms again (using another man's template, as his simptoms are/were equal to mine):

Bug runs horrible until engine warms up. Once it has been driven 10-15 minutes, runs better. Before warmed up misses/hesitates when under any load, but with no load it runs and revs great. Can be driven if you really keep your foot out of it, but this is difficult as "keeping your foot out of it" implies barely enough power to accelerate at all when upshifting. Mostly a problem at lower rpm ranges, right after an upshift. Once warmed up, runs ALMOST ok. Oh, and the engine keeps dying for the first 2-3 minutes or so at idle.

The car:

1972 VW 1300, engine AB. Stock distributor, stock carburetor, stock air filter (oil).

Now to what I have already tried to fix the problem:

- engine recently rebuilt

- new spark plugs

- new coil

- new coil cables

- new distrib. rotor

- new distrib. cap

- set up valves

- timing

- new points + condensor

- adjust idle (carb)

- pulling the accelerator level results in a clean and nice stream of gasoline through the pipe into the throat of the carb (have set it up to flow right between the choke valve and carb body). Some say it should point on the valve, so the fuel can be easily atomized, but I haven't tried that.

That's all I can think of right now. Any suggestion would be REEEEALLLY appreciated.

Damjan

Reply to
Damjan Mozetic
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hesitations.

Please, can anybody help me with this? Is the carb kaputt?

Reply to
Damjan Mozetic

in article Fj3Vb.4356$% snipped-for-privacy@news.siol.net, Damjan Mozetic at snipped-for-privacy@wherever.com wrote on 2/7/04 2:43 AM:

Damjan: Have you checked the heat riser tube (runs through the engine tin, up and under the intake manifold). After engine is at full operating temp, this tube should be too hot to touch. If it is not, it is clogged, and could cause carb icing, which would easily account for your problem. I had the same thing happen to me on my '74 SB.

-Rich

Reply to
Richard Golding

Have you looked at the centrifical weights/springs in the dist? Are they free and not hung-up? I had that problem once and fixed it with some grease. How is the vacuum bottle on the dist? Does the lever move when you go from idle to revs? I once got the vacuum hoses reversed; the dist line goes to the manifold bung.

Reply to
David Gravereaux

Didn't see it mentioned but have you checked and/or adjusted the choke ?

Randy

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Reply to
RSMEINER

I have cleaned the heat riser tube, and I am sure it is free to flow. The choke opens when the engine is hot enough. Maybe it opens too fast? Is that possible?

Reply to
Damjan Mozetic

I have cleaned and oiled the distributor internals some time ago and the vacuum hose is connected to the manifold. How can I check if the vacuum lever works with the engine running?

Reply to
Damjan Mozetic

Or not fast enough.

Randy

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Reply to
RSMEINER

Suck on it. . . . no really. Pull the hose off the carb or manifold with the engine idling, if it is an advance unit you are testing, the idle should go up and the hose to the unit should hold vacuum. If you have a retard chamber, the idle should go up as soon as you pull the hose off the manifold. If it does not, suck on the retard, the hose, pig, suck on the retard hose, that should hold vacuum as well and lower the idle while you do it. (some people have. . . dirty minds) Since these engines are designed to get off the choke quickly, you might want to make sure that the thermostat and flaps are working correctly, that is the only way the engine will get up to operating temps within the time period allowed by the choke. Hope this. . . helps. Colin

Reply to
Colin

Thanks a lot! I'll try that.

Damjan

Reply to
Damjan Mozetic

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