Hello folks, I am a newby, so be patient. I just purchased my first VW microbus. The engine was not running, but everything seemed to be in pretty good working order, or at least could be fixed. After a couple of hours of rewiring the engine compartment components, (the previous owners mechanic disconnected all the wiring and just left it that way), replacing the fuel, and the bus fired right up. It had not ran for several months. The previous owners mechanic told him that the reason the bus could not drive up the hill in front of his house was that the valves were shot and a valve job was needed. However, I am not 100% sure how accurate this explanation was. The ignition wire to the coil had a connector that would barely stay on the coil's post. I think this may have been vibrating and causing the loss of ignition. It is kind of a wild thought, but still a possibility. The other thing that bothered me about the mechanic's explanation was that the engine was just 4 months into service. The previous owner had paid this same mechanic to replace the engine, which he did with a rebuilt motor. Seems strange that valves would burn in 4 months. So after firing up the engine, I took the bus for a quick spin. It seemed to have plenty of power and acceleration for a single carborator 1600cc motor. Yes, it is a 1600cc engine, even though the books show that this vehicle should have a 2000cc engine. So upon returning to my house, I pulled out the compression tester and did a compression test on all 4 cylinders. They all came in at about 60-70 psi. This seems extremely low, as the book says they should be around
110 to 140 psi. I did the procedure by the book. Rolled the engine over with no plugs in the engine, tester in one cyl at a time and the carborator wide open to allow maximum air on the intake. So I then pulled the valve covers off to check the gaps when each cylinder was at its power stroke, sure enough the gap between the rocker and the valve was within specifications. So this would indicate that the valves are burnt, but the strange thing is that they all fell within a 1 to 2 psi of each other and the fact that the engine was just rebuilt.So question 1: Does 60 to 70 PSI make since? Seems very low, but maybe I am not thinking of something.
Now for the brake problem. So in my first little run, I noticed that I had no brakes except for the list inch or two of the brakes throw. So I pulled the tires off, , inspected the brakes. They were in good shape, but I decided to replace the pads and turn the rotors. While going through that process, I bled the brakes. The resevior was all but empty, if it had any fluid in it, it was not decernable. So I filled up the resevior and started the bleeding process. What came out was extremely bad, it was dirty and so full of absorbed water that it floated on top of new brake fluid that was in my catch container. So after a ton of pumping clean fresh fluid came out. I bled each of the two ports on the front calipers. I re-assembled the brakes and took it for a quick test drive. Things were better then before BUT.... In order to get brakes, I had to pump the pedal about 10 times. Slowly pressure would build up and the brakes would work great. But as soon as I took my foot off the pedal, the pressure would go away and I would have to go through the pumping exercise again. I would normally expect this to be air in the lines, but that normally causes the brakes to be mushy, but in this case the brakes do not exist at all until several strokes have been taken. Also, if I hold my foot on the brake, the pressure does not bleed off and holds much longer. So from my basic knowledge of general brakes systems, I am suspecting one of three things may be causing this problem.
1) air in the system (my son and I bled these lines for a long enough time that this would suprize me). However, i am going to bleed them again just in case. 2) the rear brakes have not been bled, so "water" laised brake fluid in those rear brakes is causing the problem. 3) one of the pistons in the early stages of the brake system (either part of the master cyl, or one of the slaves cyl) has a leak backwards around the pistons seal. Allowing the pressure of the system to bleed by. Although I would have thought this would have caused a failure during the stoke of my foot on the pedal and not caused pumping to be required.Question 2: have any of you experience a similiar problem with your brakes and what was the diagnoses?
Sorry for the long note. I hope it is clear enough for some possible explanations.
My son and I are absolutely in hog heaven over this bus and look forward to bringing it back to its glory days.
Thanks for you help Chuck