74 beetle rear axle castle nut questions

When I needed to do my 73 standard, I found a big-ass box-end wrench at a local tool liquidation place. Something like 1 7/16" or so (I can't take a look at it because it's currently at my brother's place). Taking the nut off just meant standing on the end of the wrench (I'm pretty heavy).

Both sides are std right-hand thread. You need a 36mm socket. The axle nuts are torqued to over 250 Foot-Lbs!! You need a 3/4" breaker bar PLUS a 4 foot cheater pipe. There are torque multiplier wrenches available, but sounded like you wanted something simpler.

If possible, drive to a tire shop and see if they would air impact it loose (just a little; you don't want to drive with the nut loose...)

Be SURE to torque the nut to 250 Ft-Lbs when tightening, otherwise the axle splines will chew the drum up.

Speedy Jim

..Gareth

MUIR says 220, I believe... what's the Bently book say?

217 Ft-Lb; Muir rounded up. If anyone can tell the diff at the end of a 4 Ft pipe, I'll buy the beer:-)

Jim

Both are "normal" handed threads, and the size is 36mm.

Jan

I would recommend the link that Gary pasted in his post. I have one and there's nothing like taking your axle nuts off with a 3/8ths ratchet!! It gives the torque value too for a 3/8th Torque wrench too. Reading right off my tool now states that: 25 lbs = 225 lbs and 30 lbs = 270 lbs. Why buy a torque wrench for stuff that high when you can get a torque multiplier and get it right (or real close anyway) for pretty cheap?

Mac

Mac

Years ago I had a friend who came up with a novel idea for removing the rear axle nut. Buy one of the 'slug wrenches', the one everyone else says you beat with a sledge hammer. But don't beat on it, instead, take the handle from your floor jack and your new slug wrench and have the two welded together. See pictures.

Now removing and installing those axle nuts is a trivial task. My buddy Dan made that tool, and I inherited it when he passed on. It's saved me a lot of physical effort over the years :)

Chris