93 eurovan keeps blowing fuse 15 and will not start.......

It all started about two weeks ago. As I was driving the engined stalled and would not start back up, so I had it towed. The next morning the shop called and said it started right back up, but had to be jumped. They could'nt find any thing wrong with it. So this happened

2 more times usually after 30+ miles. So I took it to VW dealer and they couldnt find any thing wrong it, but they suggested to change the throttle body and said they couldnt guaratee that would fix the problem. I didnt think the that was the problem so I declined service. On the way home from a close grocery stop it happened again but would not start back up. I towed it home and changed the ingnition coil, A few people told me this may be the problem. It did start after I instaled it but only stayed on for about a minute before dying, while it was on the oil light was on, I figured this was because I changed the oil switch and the one advanced auto gave me wasnt the same as the one I removed, at least it dindnt look like it, it was green and the one I removed was grey. So now it will not start up at all again, but every time I turn the ignition to start fuse 15 (engine electronics) keeps blowing.

PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN......

Reply to
sealcoating
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Is that watercooled??

Any link to a diagram?

Is it possible the coil you put in is not the same as the original?

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sure they cover the EuroVan. Speedy Jim
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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Sorry, this is the aircooled group. Try the rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled group.

They'll have a bunch of suggestions, so to get you started, remove or disconnect your coil. See if your fuse stays alive with it out of the circuit - your car won't start, but this is just a way to see what's blowing your fuse because that is your primary problem at this point. If your fuse remains ok, your coil is not hooked up right or is defective.

Remco

Reply to
Remco

So fuse #15 blows after you changed the oil pressure sender. And you think it wasn't the same anyway. That seems to be the apparent cause of fuse #15 blowing, unrelated to short-trip dieing. Coil was not the problem. Put the original back. You proved it was not the problem because the problem still exists. The dealer SHOULD HAVE hooked up the diagnostic computer which SHOULD HAVE told them what the problem is... UNLESS... There is a possibility there is water in your gasoline or even some other contaminants. Water because the problem seems to "heal itself" after the water settles back down in the bottom of the tank. It would have to be a fairly large amount of water, but as the engine runs, gasoline is agitated in the tank and the water no longer stays on the "bottom layer" and below the fuel pickup. If there is a problem with any of the electronic sensors in the engine area, what you can do is disconnect the battery the next time it dies on you. Leave it disconnected for about a minute, then hook it back up and try starting. If it starts right up, chances are there is a problem either with a sensor or that a sensor is accurately sensing as a problem and causing shutdown. If it starts rough or doesn't start, good possibility of a fuel problem similar to what I described above.

Whenever you disconnect / connect a battery after the car has been running a while especially, NO SMOKING, no sparks, nothing that can ignite the explosive gasses inside it! Be careful when using a wrench on battery terminals that the wrench does not make contact with anything else, anywhere on the car! If working on the ground side, less risky but still you need to pay attention.

If the indicator showed no oil pressure because there was no oil pressure, that could mean you have a new boat anchor instead of an engine you had previously.

Hope this helps, now go back to the watercooled side! -BaH

Reply to
Busahaulic

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