a 1302 Q

Hi Group,

My brother is about to buy a 1302 from '71. He's finally infected too...:-)

However when 'trying out' the car i notised 2 problems.

First: The brakes seem very soft like a sponge.It brakes in a straight line and an emergency stop is also good. But there is no hard pedal. Is this a major problem or is is this fixed with some minor adjustments?

Second: The engine. when reving in neutral everything seems to be fine, accelerating is a bigger problem. Especially when changing gear quick to second, the engine holds back when stepping on the trottle. And also in 3rd gear, driving about 40km/hrs floring the accelerator will give some hesitation in the engine-bay. What could that be?? timing?, carb needs cleaning?, bad sparkplugs? or worse bad compression??

Also when i take off the advanced hose the engine almost dies, when in my

1200cc there is no (noticeable) difference in RPM

Any help would be greatly appreciated..

Roger

begin 666 Roger GSM.vcf M0D5'24XZ5D-!4D0-"E9%4E-)3TXZ,BXQ#0I..CM2;V=E

Reply to
Bug59
Loading thread data ...

Hesitation is probibly 009 dis and stock carb combo. Check out brake set and bleed

href="

formatting link
">Den's 1978Puma

Reply to
Dennis Wik

Hi dennis,

Dizzi is probably a stock but will check it . I will check the brakes thorough. I forgot to say that the engine has a plastic airfilter-housing in stead of the oilbad one. Does this make a difference?? Engine is an AB 105032 so the original 1300cc engine to me

Thanks

Roger "Dennis Wik" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@storefull-3151.bay.webtv.net...

Reply to
Bug59

Hi,

I had a hesitation problem on mine and it was caused by the broken flap inside the oilbad airfilter. I don't have the problem you mention on the brakes, but I also replaced everything except the MC 2 years ago.

Joao

72 Super 1302 (AB....)
Reply to
Joao Eliseu

Spongy pedal usually means air or moisture in the brake lines. In the case of my '02 Camry w/anti-locks it's "normal". (wierd feeling for something normal)

Reply to
Mike64Bug

Check the timing. Probably off.

-- the Grokdoc Tom Malmevik all that groks is god

67 Baja "marti"
Reply to
Thomas Malmevik

Yeah, thanks all!

They re-adjusted the breakes and told me that the brakes need to wear in. To me that sounds like a lot of bogus(?) Anyway the brakes feel slightly different, if different at all. My guess is the same as yours, dirt / air or a worn master cillinder.

For the engine: indeed a stock dizzy (009 has no vacuum unit if i'm not mistaken) But when i open the dizzy and suck or blow onto the advance hose there is no change (only giving me a dizzy feeling from the fueldamp). There should be....or not?

BTW the air filter is the oil-bad one (but i don't think that's an issue here)

Well we bought the car today although the bottom was welded to the body.. :-(( This is ofcourse not too bad because we will never lift the car and it is just a daily driver instead of a showcar, but it makes you think...

Thanks for all the advice

Roger

Reply to
Bug59

If I were you, it would be peace of mind to replace all four wheel cylinder, the master cylinder and the flexi brake lines... maybe the shoes too if they are bad. Blow out the steel lines with an air hose (if they pass the visual inspection). Then rebuild with fresh fluid (which should be replaced every 3 years).

Brake parts are cheap, so it's worth it for the peace of mind IMHO, and at least at the end of it you KNOW everything will be working perfectly!

-- Howard Rose

1966 VW Beetle 1300 Deluxe 1962 Austin Mini Deluxe 1964 Austin Mini Super Deluxe
formatting link
(cars and email on website)
Reply to
Howard Rose

This has crossed my mind.

Thanks Roger

"Howard Rose" schreef >

Reply to
Bug59

Even the best brake parts won't do you any good, if you adjust them incorrectly.

One thing that is easily ignored or forgotten, is that for the rear shoes to sit right, you need to loosen the handbrake cables before adjustiung shoes. then bang the drums and backing plates lightly with a hammer so that the shoes find a comfortable position. Then adjust shoes tight against the drum, so that the drum won't turn. Then bleed the system. As you pump the pedal, the shoes will probably get loose again, as they find their place. Adjust tight again and pump some more, even if you are done bleeding. Pump & adjust, and turn teh drum by hand a couple of cycles, until the shoed don't loosen up after pumping alone. THEN adjust final tightness: on one full rotation, both shoes should drag 1/2 a turn or so. (The drums never seem to be perfectly straight).

Do this to teh front brakes too (minus the handbrake cable loosening, hehe) and go out for a drive. Use the brakes more often, and harder than you normally would. Don't use them any more than necessary on the last mile or two on your way back home. (let them cool down before parking).

Park the car, go eat dinner, and come back to check shoe adjustment one more time. Now the shoes have seated.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.