Adjusting Ignition Timing/IDLE

If you set the engine at TDC on any cylinder you can then remove the distributor cap, turn the ignition on and then rotate the distributor(clamp needs to be loose, obviously) until you see the points break(you'll see/hear an arc). That will get you close enough to have it start.

Unless your heads are designed for the long plugs you need to stick with the short reach plug(W8AC, etc).

Which model of solex carb are you running?

Chris

Here's how I used to do it when the cellophane from cigarette packages was more common. LIne up the timing mark, then turn the crankshaft pulley backwards enough to take up any slack, then forward to the mark. Either put the very thin cellophane between the points and slowly turn the distributor until it slips out, or solder two wires with alligator clips onto an ordinary 12V bulb, and with the connections at the distributor wire, watch for the light to go out.

sorry, test light - watch for it to come on

Yup guys, thanks for all the help!!!

i googled around and had an older (=more expierenced) fella here explain it to me the same way the LP did, set the crankshaft pulley a slight bit (2 or 3 mm) before the timing mark on the case and then "pass" the point and return slowly till you can hear/see the spark. Worked fine so far, i found out i have a Solex (Brosol) 30 PIC, and my engine block (1500) is good for long plugs so W8DC should be aight. I also found out that my carb is totally hosed, has lotsa (too much) free play on the shafts, is leaking and the idle valve (on the right side) was completely missing and the nose of the idle adjusting needle (on the left side) was flat. So im goin for trading-in the old one and getting a reconditioned carb for now. Next month, Im also going to buy another engine, freshen her up a little and try to install megasquirt efi! I think i will start a small webpage about all this to share my experiences! So far thanks to all,

Simon