The rear end on my '68 pan with '60 ragtop body is sagging and I would like to adjust it up correctly, that is, not with KYB shocks. I think his may be one of the few tasks I have not done on a VW over the years, so what tips do you lot have to offer? What parts should I replace while I am in there? How much should I adjust it and what do you use to set the preload? And is it safe to assume that I must detatch the axles when doing this job?
--Dan E
The best site I have seen is on Rob and Dave's page.
Hey Wolfgang, Ben,
I think you both mentioned you did this on a 68. Were those IRS rear ends?
If so, that bolsters my confidence a lot. I have a 69 and I imagine it'd be the same exact job. The rear's kinda saggy and I don't want to use a stiff shock as a band aid.
-Rob
Ben Baird wrote:
Rob,
As far as I know, IRS was introduced in 1968 only on the automatic stick shift. I think it became standard in 1969 (correct me if I am off the mark). Rob and Dave's page writes that it is the same for IRS. If you have a question, I'll be he'll answer your email quickly, I think I got a response from him the same day I asked. To encourage you to get messy, you should know that this was one of the first mechaniking I did on my bug, and I finished it in.... well let's just say a day. It wasn't hard, just a lot of 'goodies' to remove and then re-install. It gave me the confidence to go on to more scary adventures... ;-)
Good luck!
Ben @ UCSB
1968 Stock Beetle
Hey Ben, thanks for the response.
Yes, you understand it like I do... in 68, IRS was only on the autosticks, so I guess I was just verifying that you had a swing axle. I read thru those links and it does seem to be about the same for IRS or swing. Cool.
My bug's in the shop right now getting a full body-and-paint job. Not sure when it'll be out since I told the guys it's not a rush job. I'm
*certain* they're not making any money off this deal! Then, it's going in for some interior work. After that I think I'll start to do some misc wrenching like raising the sagging rear.-Rob > Rob,
Here's a post I put out there a long time back, that explains a fairly easy way to adjust a swingaxle style rearend..............If you have an autostick this won't help much, but here's my offering. Hope it helps. Any questions arising from this post email me and maybe I can clarify.
OK,..........I Know this'll Sound A bit Simplistic, but Here goes.
I Did The Adjustment By Starrett Tape measure Once And It Worked BEAUTIFULLY. What I Did, Was measure The Existing Distance between the TOP SPRING PLATE BOLT, and the Body with the Car on the Ground.......Wheels On........At rest. then I raised it up slowly with a jack 'til I Got The Suiggested Height (from one of my manuals , And Don;t Ask Which one!!!) Then I Measured Again.............Subtracted the Smaller Dimension from the Larger, And figure this is how much I needed to raise it.....Then I took the Wheels off,one at a time, took the front of the fender a loose,.......And removed the Bolts holding on to The Swing arm Housing , till the Housing Swung free, supported it with A Stand.................. Using the Suggested method I Got The Spring plate free of The spot it normally rests,just far enough It Was All still Attached but Adjustable, And Then I Started measuring Agian..........Plate Without Pressure Should give About The Same results ( In Inches or MM) when Adjusted Without A Load On it ( ZERO TENSION)..............After My Adjustment was made, Put her back T'gether, And VIOLA!...........perfect....................OK,.......now if that ain't Cheatin I Don;t Know What is,........but I Was novicing On a '68 I hated ('cept for the paint job).....................And Wanted only One thing.......................get it together...SELL IT!
now don;t Make this Difficult,..................I did read Two Manuals At Least before i Started this job, And figured A Shortcut or two in there if you read this right............LOL
hope your Adjustment is Easier than It Sounds.
Remove "YOURPANTIES" to reply MUADIB®
Standard in the US market, offered only with the super beetles in the rest of the world.
Jan
I've done it while leaving the the axles on and not removing the arm from the pivot (on an IRS) its definitly easier with the axles off etc. I also like to use the torsion tool that is sold for around 20 clams. it leaves my jack free for sort of a 3rd hand. One other thing I like to suggest (I didn't click on the link to see if it was in there) is having some longer bolts for the torsion covers onhand to refit them. Mark Detro Englewood, FL
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