axel removal w/o impact wrench

I'm trying to get the axle nut off of my '73 Bug (IRS) without the help of an impact gun. I've used Muir's idea of a breaker bar with a 1" x 3' pipe cheater, but have only manged to torque off the socket nub on two bars.

I've poured Liquid Wrench on the nut, I've heated it up with a torch, I've banged on it with a mallet (not on the threads), and I've tried knocking the nut with a cold chisel.

Any tricks that I've missed, or should I just call a mobile mechanic to come out with an impact gun?

Thanks, Animal

Reply to
Animal
Loading thread data ...

drill it out and breack it with a chisel and hammer: (make sure you buy new ones first ::)

pictures:

formatting link

Reply to
Eduardo K.

Naw, you don't need a drill!

formatting link

Reply to
David Gravereaux

Yeah: buy the 3/4" drive breaker bar & socket & use a pipe & you're good to go. Break it loose with the tire on the ground & have someone stand on the brakes (if the emergency brake dosen't hold it). If it still turns then you'll need to hold it as illistrated in David's link. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

Reply to
ThaDriver

There are two tools that will give you two more options.

One is a wrench that you use with a 1/2 breaker bar and a BFH (Big Fn Hammer) I have had mixed success with this tool. I used to have them but sold all but one of them. They were made by KD tools and might still be sold by VW specialty shops or part stores.

Another is a tool that bolts to the drum and allows you to crank that nut off easily. I have never used this tool, but it sounds intriguing. Also might be used with the flywheel gland bolts too.

The best method is what someone else recommended. A cheater bar on a 3/4" breaker bar with a 6 point socket on the nut with the tire on the ground and someone holding the brakes and the trans in gear.

good luck, dave (One out of many daves)

Reply to
One out of many daves

I heard that these work:

formatting link

Reply to
David Gravereaux

Eduardo:

Thanks. I'm ordering another axle nut today and will chisel off the old old.

David, ThaDriver (Paul), Dave,

I've tried the cheater bar method on a 1/2" drive braker bar AND a 3/4" sliding t-bar. I've torqued off the socket nub both times. One was a Craftsman and the other a Snap-On tool, so quality of the tool probably isn't the problem.

The wheel is not revolving when I attempt to remove the axle nut, so using David's 'helping hand' suggestion is not needed right now.

I appreciate all of the help, guys.

Animal

Reply to
Animal

Outstanding! I think I'll order this just 'cause it looks so cool.

Animal

Reply to
Animal

...a great tool...though the quality of finish isn't perfect. However, it will nto solve your problem this time. =-) It is wonderful for gland nuts especially for torquing on unassembled engien when setting end play. I just did a rear suspension/brake overhall on my baja a few weeks ago...replaced the drums, wheel cylinders, shoes, torsion bushings, and shocks. Had car on lift and hit the castle nuts with an IR professional impact gun with 150-160psi. Nada. Remembered my nifty tool from CIP1. Bolted it on...nada....hit the tool with the impact to give a combined removal torque of astronomical proportions....nada (though I was expecting the tool to shatter...which it thankfully did not.) Tried the big breaker bar...nope. Not sure what they got torqued to when-ever they were put on...but it took multiple sessions with teh blue wrench making it cherry red and slapping the impact on to eventually crack the mutha's free. =-) It helped much having a well equipped shop to work in....but I have done similar in the driveway. Patience.....good tools...and,...fire. Cause fire's cool... huh huh...yea fire.

...Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

Patience is your best tool. Put some penetrating oil on the nut, whack it with a hammer a few times, try the cheater bar. Wait a day. Repeat.

It will come off in a few days if you give it time.

Reply to
Michael Cecil

That takes some real doing. Torquing off 1/2" or smaller isn't too difficult.. but that behemoth 3/4" slide bar one that craftsman puts out is a beast. The one I've had has cheerfully ate up around 1000 pounds of torque and held up. The cheater pipe was as long as I am tall. ;)

How much weight were you dumping into it to get it to shear off?

Reply to
Seth Graham

I recommend employing The Strength Of Kong (tm). That, and a 20' long cheater bar. :-)

Reply to
Shag

"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall remove the axle." - Archimedes I think I got that quote mostly right.

Reply to
Shag

Or the Belly of Kong and a shorter cheater bar.

Reply to
Michael Cecil

Yup. Nailed that.

Wasn't he the one that ran around the streets of ancient Greece shrieking "Eureka!" after he overflowed his bath water 'cause he figured out how measure the density of a crankshaft or something like that?

Reply to
David Gravereaux

What size socket drive are you using? 1/2" is too small.

-

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

-----------------------------------------------

Reply to
Jim Adney

Why not treat yourself to an impact wrench and small compressor ? Thats the excuse I use to buy myself new toys !!! You know it will pay for itself over and over.

Rich

Animal wrote:

Reply to
tricky

On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 11:07:55 GMT, tricky scribbled this interesting note:

An impact tool of any kind is a very bad idea in this application. The smooth application of force is what is wanted here. Why? Because there are bearings very near that big nut and if an impact tool of any kind (be it an impact wrench, slug wrench, etc.) is used on it then micro-flats have just been created on those bearings, thus shortening their useful life. A big breaker bar (larger than 1/2"), an impact socket (so it is less likely to break), and a long cheater bar, as well as some way to keep the car from moving, is all that is usually required. If this fails, then a die-grinder will cut the nut off and you merely replace with a new nut.

Not to say that more tools ain't a bad idea, just make certain you use the correct tools for the job.

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Reply to
John Willis

On Wed, 16 Feb 2005 17:57:07 -0800, David Gravereaux scribbled this interesting note:

Not to mention that this particular fellow almost beat Sir Newton to inventing calculus.

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

Reply to
John Willis

Doesn't using a big honkin' cheater pipe put wear on the same parts as the entire wheel gets torqued?

I know when I was struggling with my last stubborn axle nut, the wheel was noticably twisting when I leaned into it. Seemed like it was mostly a question of choosing which poison to drink.

Reply to
Seth Graham

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.