Brake Caliper

I broke the bleeder screw and a screw extractor off in my brake caliper. Anybody got one for a '66 type III? Check your used parts shelves and help me out please.

Thanks, < TC

Reply to
tcrdn11
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I have rebuilt type 3 calipers, AND I can rebuild yours. I can get the broken bleeder valve out. If this is an original caliper, it is much better than the replacements now being sold. DO NOT buy a new caliper!

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

I need one. Email me please with a price. I'm going out to remove mine and see if I can find a part #

Thanks, Tom snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

Reply to
tcrdn11

I just broke a screw extractor in my 1303 caliper too. Trying to get a broken bleed nipple out !. How do 'you' get them out (and the extractor now ! )?

I was just going to get an aftermarket one ????

Rich

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Reply to
tricky

Thats exactly my problem too.

Misery loves company

< TC
Reply to
tcrdn11

Rich,

Just had a machinist suggest welding a bolt to the broken bleeder screw and then back the whole works out. He couldn't do it but sent me to a guy with a wire welder that might. He's at lunch now but I'll check back with him. I'll let ya know how it works.

< TC
Reply to
tcrdn11

I thought of that. I use that trick with broken bolts often, its great !

This seemed a bit small, and I didnt want to melt anything important inside !

Let me know how you get on

Rich

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Reply to
tricky

Well, the saga continues like everything else in my world lately.

First guy tried it 3 times but couldn't get enough bite on it to move the stuck bleeder screw. Even tried with a bolt but again, couldn't get enough.

Then a friend, who also owns a machine shop came by and he took it to his shop to give it a try. He seemed a little more confident and had some other ideas. Splitting the caliper (which I don't have the stuff to do) or using a plasma cutter to cut the broken ez out, then go at it again.

At this point, I'm waiting for some parts guys to get back with me to send me a new one. But if this trick works, I'll put that sucker right back on.

I'll keep you posted, < TC

Reply to
tcrdn11

How about drill and tap ?

Rich

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Reply to
tricky

Never tried this on bleeder screws, but it might work. Drilling and tapping for the SAME thread. It's generally not a very good idea because you will most likely destroy the original threads with the tap, and what's left is only fragments of "good" thread, and the rest is just junk.

It might hold a bleeder valve in place though.. they don't take much torque to seal well. The tip does the sealing.

Jan

tricky wrote:

Reply to
Jan Andersson

I *once* managed to do that successfully with an exhaust manifold for an old "other" car that had a busted off stud on the downpipe flange. I firmly believe that the only way I managed to successfully accomplish it was because I had the correct Helicoil kit in my toolbox.

Of course my buddy was watching me and said "wow, that's pretty cool, I didn't know you could do that." (I didn't either, but I didn't say anything.) He had another manifold with *two* busted off studs in it and of course he had to try his skillz. The first one he drilled out successfully. The second one he got almost all the way through with a

1/8" bit and he musta got a little impatient and leaned into it a little too much... the drill bit snapped off flush with the end of the stud. Ooooopsie. scratch one NLA manifold :(

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Take the caliper halves apart, heat the casting around the bleeder to free the threads and anneal the EZ-Out. Carefully drill out the bleeder with a left-handed drill until it comes loose and unscrews itself.

I have a few of these calipers available, rebuilt by me. I'd sell them cheap since I really only work on type 3s. These are type 3 calipers which I've removed from type 3s over the years. They are fine for your car, if they're the right version, but they're the wrong caliper for a beetle. An aftermarket caliper for your car might be fine. It's not as good as an original, but not too bad.

The problem with the current new replacement calipers now being sold for type 3s is that they are actually type 1 calipers, with the smaller type 1 pistons. That gives approx. a 10% reduction in type 3 front wheel braking force.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

Sometimes that can work, but most of the time it won't. The bolt size is just too small to get much torque on it. It's a 7mm thread.

There's also a rubber seal between the caliper halves, just under the bleed valve. If you get that too hot, you have to take the caliper apart and replace it.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

Most likely to just destroy the caliper. You have to remove the bleeder and clear the original threads.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

Oops, typo alert. Should read, "...type 1 calipers which I've removed from type 3s over the years."

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

Well, for those interested in the end of the story, here it is.

Ordered 2 new calipers from Aircooled.net, should be here Thursday. No luck at all with the broken bleeder screw removal. Many thanks to Jim for his most excellent advise. I've learned many things from this buggy project in general but the brake job in particular, VW people are good people! Thanks to both Jim's, Jan, Rich and everybody else.

While I was at it, I replaced the flexible hoses on the rear and checked to make sure I could move those bleeder screws, broke one of them off too. I had ordered new rear cylinders a few weeks ago so I changed them out.

I didn't know it but I have a type II tranaxle. The left seal is leaking which was why I ordered the brake cylinders, I thought it was the brake cylinder leaking slowly. Anyway, anybody know how big a job it is to replace the axle seal? It's a slow leak that I will eventually have to address but if it's not a big job, I might tackle it tomorrow.

Thanks to all, < TC

Reply to
tcrdn11

Once you get the brake drum off, it's an easy job. Before you start, you need to have several parts in hand, not just the seal, but also the seal kit with the 2 O-rings and the paper gasket. When you're done, make SURE to torque the axle nut properly AND use the cotter pin.

When you say you have a type 2 tranny, do you mean that you have the one with the reduction gearboxes out by the wheels? If anyone needs parts for one of those, I have one from '65, already torn down.

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----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

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Reply to
Jim Adney

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