Brakes issue

If you have brakes of unknown vintage... meaning you dont have any idea how old the components are and you are having trouble with them - then why not replace some parts. Master cylinders are not real pricey, wheel cylinders are cheap. Don't rebuild any of them just replace them. If the brake shoes are really worn then that could cause it... somewhat.

No leaks anywhere? Did it just start? Or did you do something like remove a backing plate, open the lines for any reason before the problem started? or replace some brake lines? If so you could have gotten air in the lines. Properly bleeding them is the key... you have to get all the air out of the system, which on a single circuit master cylinder, which a '65 has, is more important, or more "problematic" than say on the dual brake circuit M/C's.

If not - I would replace the master and wheel cylinders, and might also consider replacing the rubber flex hoses. they can clog up and cause brake problems also... The brake system is one of the most important system on your car, dont skimp...use quality parts and maintenance techniques.

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1966 Type I "Old VW"s don't leak oil, they mark their territory."vwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvwvw

Try this quick experiment:

Tighten all the stars so tight that the wheel(s) won't spin. See if the pedal is high and solid.

If it is, the problem is likely shoe-to-drum clearance.

I wouldn't completely rule out a bad M/C either, but this test may shed some light.

Speedy Jim

When adjusting the rear, you must release the handbrake cables fully first. Disconnect the cables from the handle. Then adjust the shoes so that you can hear them drag against the drum lightly. Go oout on a test drive, brake hard a few times, then repeat adjustment. When the foot brakes seem to work ok, reconnect hand brake cables and adjust.

Jan

I think I have a conversion because the master cylinder has three outlets, one each to the front wheels, and one to the back wheels. I did replace the rubber hose on the front right as the wheel was locking on braking and not releasing until I opened the bleeding screw. I tried to bleed the master in place. But you are right. It cannot hurt to replace all the hydraulic components. Thanks.

Regards, Elvin

someone correct me ... but I dont think that is right .

the front wheels should come off one outlet into a tee. some MC's had 2 brake light warning switches (I think ! )

Hmmmm Interesting. Yes that sounds like a later Master Cylinder... I need to convert mine also. Just curious, you said you only replaced the rubber flex hose on the one wheel? In terms of good maintenance practices I would have replaced all 4 of them, or at least in pairs, especially if they are of unknown age. Just my opinion, but it prevents problems later on. Maybe - just maybe, you think some air got into the system on the other side and its not bleeding right due to some clogging of the rubber hose? It could be the wheel cylinders themselves sucking in just a little air causing you to lose pressure. At ant rate let us know what happens.

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The later design or dual circuit master cylinder started in 67 or 68... cant remember, but there are 2 pistons in tandem. The resevior has a dual feed. and yes 2 switches. So you have 2 hard line connections on the front of the M/C and 1 connection for the rear brakes

not the best pic... but you get the idea

For those that didnt know about single vs. dual circuit brakes -

The idea is with a single circuit M/C... if your brakelines come undone or open for some un-godly reason, like say a ball joint comes loose and the brake components get ripped off the car... it would leave you with a brakeless tricycle. With a dual circuit M/C atleast if the one circuit is intact and working correctly you would have at least some braking power.