Curiouser and curiouser

Jeez, its quite!. After very much longer than I care to admit I twigged that the cause of my T3 being reluctant to start when hot may have nothing to do with carburation. Taking the other approach I decided to look at ignition electrics. Ignition is fed by a relay under back seat energised by original feed from ignition switch. Measured voltage at the battery with ignition on, points closed, no starter and its 12.5 volts. Measured voltage at "+" of ignition coil with same conditions and its 10.5 volts!. Two volts dropped across ~ 2 meters of cable, an in line fuse, relay contacts and various crimp connectors. Confirmed it with a meter from battery to coil positive. =2 volts drop. With the starter on I,d be looking at another 2 volt drop giving ~8 volts to ignition making starting suspect . Soldered all crimp connections, the two volt drop went down to 0.5 volts, car starts fine , hot ot cold. All crimp connectors were industrial quality, the correct size, the crimps made by decent crimpers, cable clean . I,ve been in electronics for

45 years and on appearances I would have said it looked perfect. You,d think at 64 y.o you would have heard most things but obviously not!. John
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John
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Reply to
KWW

Both. With some crimped ones I used phosphoric acid as a flux and it soldered beautifully with solder flowing into crimped area. On another joint there was a male/female "bullet" connector. I removed this and just soldered the wires together plus some heatshrink over joint. If you can get straight phosphoric acid now it makes s superb soldering flux. I,ve soldered straight dirty steel wires together as if it was new copper. Just make sure its washed off later.I use it to make my own rust remover. About a 3 part water,1 part acid.

Reply to
John

Thanks for sharing.

I have started a 6V beetle with a 9V little battery in a pinch, hooked it directly to the ignition coil. Started right up even when the starter turned real slow :D Turns out hard starting is more due to loss of spark or too weak spark, when the starter draws all the available power.

As for phosphoric acid, it's great for rust treatment on ferrous metals too. Can be used as primer, it turns rust black almost on contact. One brand name/product designed for just rust treatment is called OSPHO, I used it a lot when I worked on classic Porsches.

You can get pretty much the same stuff at Lowes or Home Depot (Forgot which, I think HD) made by JASCO. It's in the paint section. I bought a small pump spray bottle to apply an even mist coat. The acid has not damaged the bottle in over 1 year of sitting in it.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

The rustkillers you mention are the ones I got the "recipe" from. I bought 5 litres of straight acid I think for about $20 and mixed 1:3 gives me 20 litres. Less the little bottles I give to mates for flux. Your comments re starting are spot on. There is an old saying in electronics, " check your power supply first". Guess it refers to old VW,s as well!

Reply to
John

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