I finished putting inserts in the holes of both studs that pulled out in my engine. Both studs were 'repair' studs with a coarser thread and a bit thicker.
Problem is, th studs I bought to replace them (I got 4, two upper and two lower ones) are around 5mm shorter that the ones they replace.
Are those 40hp studs? Engine is 1600SP. Can I use those shorter studs?
Thanks.
PS. case savers are very cool :)
Don't compare them to the "repair" studs, compare them to the original studs that are still in there. I suspect they'll be just right.
the 8 lower studs should all be the same length. the 4 upper outer studs should all be the same length the 4 upper inner studs should all be the same length
For SP heads, the 8 upper studs may all be the same length, I don't remember.
It's usually the lowers which pull out.
------------------------------------------------ Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA
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ok. I did that and counted only 2 still original studs, and those were of the same lenght... I was looking at the 1-2 side of the engine were i got the 2 pulled studs and all were repair :)
I know have 4 originals, 3 on case savers, one stock hole. The rest are repair studs...
In that case (pun intended) you're living on borrowed time. I wonder what kind of shop would install only 3 case savers.
I realize that this is not the answer you want to hear, but the repair studs are a temporary fix at best. They will all eventually pull out. Do yourself a favor and tear the whole engine down, and send it to RIMCO for a complete set of case savers.
I have lots of good used 10mm studs here if you need them.
This will seem like a whole lot of trouble, but you really have to compare it to doing a couple now, then a couple more in 6 months, then a couple more in 6 more months, then a cou....
You'll never be happy with this until you do it right, and RIMCO will do it right and for a very fair price. Do it now. You'll be dollars and hours ahead.
------------------------------------------------ Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA
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On Tue, 14 Oct 2003 20:03:10 -0500, Jim Adney ran around screaming and yelling:
i don't know about "dollars ahead" if he has to pay two way shipping...he is in Chile'
J
Oops, I missed that part! Sorry. In that case, take it apart and find a machine shop which can do the case saver installs. It will be even cheaper in Chile.
------------------------------------------------ Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA
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that actually me :) who installed 2 case savers. one came with the engine.
and yes... I know I am living on borrowed time, this is my learning engine (always knew it) to break and learn fixing it so my next engine can get done right...
this is a single relief case bored who knows how much over and still running with stock cyls and pistons from 1969 and single port heads.
next engine will be a 1776 on a dual relief with dual ports, but I need learn first, thats what this engine is for :)
Okay, that's kinda what I thought. There's really not much point to just putting in a couple of case savers. Once you tool up to do this you might as well do all 16. If you want to do it yourself, all you need is a friend, the right drill and tap, a couple of cylinders, and a drill press.
Take the case apart, remove all the internal parts, and then bolt the case halves back together. Put the 2 cylinders in the holes in one side and turn that side down. The case will then be supported on the ends of the 2 cylinders with the other side facing straight up. Put it this way on the drill press table and drill your 8 holes.
Then chuck the tap and turn the chuck by hand to start the tapping in each of the eight holes.
Flip and repeat on the other side.
Finish tapping all 16 holes.
There are some important things to learn about engine assembly that you might as well learn with cheap (used or stock) parts. This still sounds like a good time to do it.
------------------------------------------------ Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA
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The drill press is what I dont have... we had a homedepot down here that had a good selection of US-quality hardware and tools, but they got out of Chile once they realized down here nobody buys the right tool for the job and just use what travis calls 'redneck' style tools and methods.
You would not beleive how much you have to improvise and search to find a simple thing like a case saver or a tap...
The case savers I put I did with a hand drill and lots of sweating to keep it perpendicular to the case. And they are not steel, doen here they are bronze or brass with an outer 9/16-12 thread
I know. I want to install this one, run it, see how it goes, tear it down apart again, rebuild it, reinstall it... repeat :)
Okay, then that makes it tough. How about a local machine shop? They might be cheap compared to US prices.
Yes, I can imagine.
Actually brass or bronze would be EXCELLENT choices for case savers. The coefficient of thermal expansion is much closer to that of the case and the material is plenty strong. Can you get more of them? How did you keep yours perpendicular to the case?
I did exactly ONE hand installed case saver a few years ago when I found a case that had 15 case savers in it, plus one deep-sink stud which had pulled out. With 2 of us watching to maintain perpendicularity in 2 dimensions we managed to do a pretty good job, but they really need to be close and this is nervewracking, as I assume you well know.
Sounds like you've got exactly the right idea. ;-)
------------------------------------------------ Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA
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Very slow drill speed and Sonia waching over my head... :)
Maybe I can export case savers...
I spent around 2 hours just drilling and tapping... but they came out ok.
I did have to put the new studs two or three turns out from the bottom of the case saver to be able to put the nut completly on. Maybe I did get shorter studs that I needed, but could find no source for its lenght...
I did seal them with Indian Gasket, same thing I used to glue the case savers on...
I assembled this one today. The first time I did I noticed torque readings were erratic and felt 'spongy', so I took the head off... There were traces of old RTV sealand in the sealing surfaces. Previous assembler had used silicone sealer!. I had completly missed that when cleaning the head..
I reassembled it after cleaning it again and now got torque up very fast and the head seemed to move around less while torquing. Will leave overnight and recheck torque tomorrow and declare it done.
I now have to grind the bellhousing...
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