Dakota Digital CHT gauge......

"Tim Rogers" wrote in message news:yOs0g.1921$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.nyroc.rr.com...

Well that's pretty neat. Now here's the link for a selector switch so you can select any of the 4.

was working on a LCD screen display for all his gauges and wasdeveloping an auto-scroll type display for his CHT sensors so that it woulddisplay one and then the next, etcetera, automatically. I don't know if heever got that far with it.Did you get the long thermocouple sensor? How long? I remember now the progression of my mixture gauges: 1st was oxygen sensor after the headers and before the muffler. I had to use a three wire unit here as the single wire almost never got hot enough to function. Next I welded a bung on the leading part of the headers on #3 tube. It worked much better but was still inconsistent. I think if I had been using an inch-and-a-half muffler pipe it might have stayed hot enough, but I had two-and-a-half all the way out. Finally, the last engine: I took a pretty much perfect left-side heat exchanger (for a '79 bus - rare!) and welded a bung on the head pipe about two inches from the exhaust port. This one worked all the time and did not have the up-and-down tendencies of all the other hookups. I expect doing this will solve your mixture reading problems - it sure did for me. I bought a piece of RC car exhaust silicone tubing to route the wire through so it wouldn't get the insulation burned off and short out. I also pop-rivetted a sheetmetal channel onto the bottom tin that acted to guide the silicone tubing in the proper position.

I intend to post some pics of that soon. Presently I can't find that series of pics. I may need to go over to the neighbor I gave all that stuff to and see if I can do a photo shoot! I also ran across my pics of installing new injectors and the extra steps I took. Important note here is, when you slide the big retainer doughnuts on the injectors, be sure to do it the hard way, sliding them into place. Don't be tempted to take the shortcut and roll them on! It really simplifies the job, but the doughnut might end up inside-out in which case the rounded shoulders will be against the ridge on the injector that they need to bear against. That rounded shoulder will allow the injector to slide right outa there!

Look also at the head surface where the stud that the retainer fits onto resides. Look carefully to see if the retainer is bottomed out flat against that flat surface. If it is, it may not be exerting any retaining pressure on the injector's big doughnut. I removed each of those studs and filed the surface down until I could see a space between the metal retainer clip and the head surface, that way I knew the injector was being held in snugly. I'll try to get these posted really soon. -BaH

...............This is valuable information Dave. I'm looking forward to seeing those pics.