do you have Compufire, etc.? gastank sealer? kinda long rant

My Super just refused to start the other day. I did all the usuals, but the fuel filter was full of "brown stuff". This must have happened quickly, as I check the oil and filter everytime I start out. I suspected blocked passages in my NEW 34pict, so I got it to my mechanic when it finally stumbled to life... he said the points had closed, and to watch the filter (duhhh-I have

10 spares in my trunk-yes the plastic cheapies)... the gas is clear now-the pump is working-and the tank was cleaned last year. Why do mechanics always say you don't need a new tank? So you'll keep bringing it back when it clogs again? What's the best sealer to put in a brand new tank? I'm sick of points, so what exactly electronics should I get: Compufire or Pertronix? I'm talking low cost here... I'm keeping a spare new set of points, etc. in case of problems, but any feedback on your experiences helps.... my boss is getting silently VERY p'd off at my inability to get to work 5 days a week. I just want to TRUST this VW to take me 20 miles each way M-F.... and our other car is a 2000 Focus POS POS POS....(don't ask)... the tow truck driver gives me a discount, says we're his best customers, and waves to me on those infrequent days when he sees me driving. I'M NOT MAKING THIS UP....wow Ramva has good people - thanks AGAIN!! Paul
Reply to
pmbedard
Loading thread data ...

I am running pertronix in my 71 transporter and compufire in my 70 bug. I have found both to be satisfactory and so far as I know reliable and effective. Timk11

Reply to
Tim Klopfenstein

lots of guys swear by a product named "US Standard" tank sealer, made by a company named, I THINK, "por 15". do a google groups search 'gas tank' and 'sealer'.....it's most likely an epoxy paint, OR something "very similar to" a 2 part epoxy paint...

Reply to
bill yohler

People have raved about por-15 for years on this n.g. I'm sure it's excellent, but it being toxic and impossible to get off skin, etc plus it having to be applied to bare metal has put me off...

Reply to
pmbedard

Maybe because you don't? After all, your problem this time was that the points had closed up. Not a tank problem at all.

Your dist. cam is probably worn and rough. It's eating thru the point's rubbing block. This can be smoothed down with a small carborundum stone, but you have to take the dist apart to do it, and it takes a fair amount of skill.

-

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

-----------------------------------------------

Reply to
Jim Adney

Paul, if it isn't clean and dry, anything you put in there isn't gonna work - for long. I used to have problems running through ignition points. I ran Pertronix for a while and burned one up while reinstalling the distributor in the dark - should have made the connectors "keyed" so they couldn't be hooked up wrong! The other Pertronix I had was actually defective but both gave excellent service for extended life. I went back to points and always carried an extra set, but never needed them. This is because I made sure the point cam was perfectly smooth and clean and I started using anti-seize compound on it for lubricant. I had very little wear on the rubbing blocks after that. Many times I got all set up to adjust points and timing, stuck the timing light on there and it was spot-on. Stuck the dwell meter on there and it was amybe a half degree off - and this is after a time span where I would have expected to actually replace the points before using the anti-seize. Once I learned this trick I couldn't justify buying another Pertronix.

sealer, made

groups search 'gas

OR something

sure it's

skin, etc plus

Reply to
Busahaulic

I really dislike the complete concept of a tank sealer. The idea of trying to save your tank by coating it with some organic compound is just too off-base.

A good tank won't rust inside unless you have a problem that is regularly admitting water. If you have this problem, fix whatever is cracked/broken/leaking and your problem will go away. I have several

35 year old VWs, all with perfectly shiny tanks (inside.) They don't rust as long as they are just filled with gasoline.

OTOH, the tank coatings often plug up small passages that you didn't think about when you bought into this idea. This is just something that seems like a good idea, but it really isn't.

In addition to plugging up holes that you need, there is also the problem of the stuff flaking off after a few years. We hear lots of people telling us about how pleased they are after doing this last month, but I've never heard anyone mentioning that they did it 5 years ago and are still happy. Most of those people ended up buying a new tank.

-

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

-----------------------------------------------

Reply to
Jim Adney

I have never tried sealing a VW gas tank but I did use the stuff on a 1952 MG. Worked like a champ for a few years then started breaking up. I not only had a leaking gas tank but a huge mess to try to clean up in order to save the tank so it could be welded. Those tanks were mounted on the back of the car for everyone to see. It was also almost impossible to find a replacement. VW replacements are available for not much $$. Don't patch, replace. Timk11

Reply to
Tim Klopfenstein

.................I bought a new one that's pretty good quality for my '66 bug at Advance Auto Parts for just over $100.

Reply to
Tim Rogers

You didn't lose me, but I'm a mite bewildered....so if I get Compufire or Pertronix will this bypass the worn cam problem? Sorry to ask such a probably pretty stupid question....

Reply to
pmbedard

Yes.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

Yes

-

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

-----------------------------------------------

Reply to
Jim Adney

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.