engine building questions

Hi,

I am nearing my engine build up and got a few questions. dual port 1600 cc

1) my case (for some strange reasons) doesn't have all case savers installed, 4 on the left half and 1 on the right. So I am going to install case savers for all studs. When installing case savers, should I use sealer? I know that sealer is used when studs are installed in the halfs to prevent oil leaks, but not sure if it's the same for the savers.

2) is it absolutly nessary to have engine stand, if I have case savers I don't have to install studs until halfs are joined and to install oil pump, I can just stand the case on the flywheel side. Is there anything wrong with doing this?

3) On how to rebuild your aircooled volkswage engine I see that the cylinder barrels are black. Is it common to have those painted if so what kind of paint would you recomend on using? Also would it be ok to paint pushrod tubes as well? I want to prevent rust and oil leaks as mush as possible.

4) Full flow oil filteration, where does oil get returned into the case? I have seen a few setups. through fuel pump block off plate, oil presure relieve valve or oil galley plug. What would be a right size of the oil pump for street engine? 26mm, 30mm? and should I have oil plugs removed and taped for allen plugs?

Thanks

Reply to
anton
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Hi,

Would really like to get some input on #3 if any.

Thanks, Ant> Hi,

Reply to
anton

yes...paint your cylinders and pushrod tubes...flat black, light coat, rustoleum works well.....any THIN coat of flat black that doesn't contain ceramic...... clean them well then spray, or brush on the light coat....the paint will keep rust off, and that is a good thing...rust is one hell of a good *insulator*, and you don't want that...

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

Thanks Joey

Ant> > Hi,

Reply to
anton

Yes

I have tried to build VW engines with a stand, and in my opinion they are more trouble than they are worth. DEFINITELY not necessary. The engine can be balanced on a sturdy table very easily. For joining the case halves:

I drill 8 holes right through the table, for the long head studs to pass through. You have to use blocks of wood between the case and the table to lift it up just a little, otherwise the connecting rods hit the table and cause the crank to not seat. This has proven to be the best way to do it, at least for me. I've built more engines than I can remember, semi professionally.

Joey had the correct answer for you. In addition to painting the pr tubes, install them so that the seams all point UP. That's just a precaution: In case the seam ever rusts through, the hole would not dump the oil on the ground. The pr tubes flow a lot of oil when the engine is running.

NOOOOO!!! You cannot do that, the fuel pump hole only drains freely back into the case. If you take the oil feed from the pump, route it through the filter, then back into the case.. it never goes to the bearings!! It won't lubricate anything!

This works, and the adapter is available at

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Just understand that this renders the oil pressure control valve functionless, and allows the oil to pass through the cooler at all times. This means the engine takes much longer to warm up, and that causes it to wear more. It also keeps the oil too cool, not allowing condensed water to evaporate from inside the case until you have driven a long way to get the engine temps up.

This is the best way. The only thing bypassed is a 4 inch lenght of straight internal oil passage. The plug is drilled out, and threads are cut on the inside to accept an adapter. Professionally made hoses with crimp-on hose connectors HIGHLY recommended. Garden hose clam on a cheap hose WILL NOT work in the long run, they will leak. Use teflon tape in the threads of the adapter to prevent oil from leaking past the threads.

26mm. 30mm is for race engines mostly, they produce way more pressure than necessary and it offers no benefit, only prolems in a mild street engine. Only when you have extensive changes done to the lubricating system that LOWER the pressure, will you need a 30mm pump to compensate for the power loss. These changes include making the oil passages larger and making modifications that open new passages for oil to flow out of. Generally not done on a street engine.

Yes, you should. 2 reasons: You are supposed to clean out the oil passages behind them thoroughly, AND the soft factory plugs may blow out if you have too much oil pressure or just plain old and worn engine case.

Jan

Reply to
Jan

Thanks Jan, this is a ton of helpful info.

I've been looking around at various full flow oil pumps, and somebody suggested maxi flow pump from cb performance. This pump seems to be pretty sweet set up since it does not require drilling or runing return lines to the case, it returns back into the oilpump. pump cover has 2 fittings in and out. Also the fact that I don't need to cut any tins or anything like that and not have to worry about having to figure out different angles for fittings. I've seen return fitting from aircooled but as you mentioned yourself, drawbacks are kind of a pain and defeate the whole purpose of fullflowing, due to warm times, oil presure control valve loss and cooler temps.

As far as using teflon tape on the fittings, I've read somewhere to use locktite instead of teflon tape.

Thanks again. Anton

Jan wrote:

Reply to
anton

If you are refering to Maxi Pump 2, then keep in mind that the pump cover will need some clearancing work so that the sheet metal behind the pulley can be fitted, and that it won't clear the stock exhaust's manifold preheat tube return (you will have to cut it and weld shut the holes, disabling maifold preheat, not a very good idea). Otherwise it is only adequate for a stock 1600 engine.

Bill, '67 Beetle.

Reply to
Bill Spiliotopoulos

that oil pump works ok in stock and mild engines, but it is somewhat restrictive.

Loctite makes many kinds and grades of thread locking and sealing compounds. You would want to use a thread SEALER here.

Jan

anton kirjoitti:

Reply to
Jan

Hi Bill,

Actually i was refering to Maxi Pump 3

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I've never heard good feedback on MaxiPump 2 style.

I am building stock engine it will have heater boxes, (I have lived in the north in the past, but living in central ca for the past 11 years has competely deteriated my abilities to handle cold weather) w/o preheat and merged exhaust header. This set up should give me adequate clearance to run oil lines.

Thanks, ant> If you are refering to Maxi Pump 2, then keep in mind that the pump cover

Reply to
anton

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