engine pull toughness scale 1 to 10

I am considering taking the engine out to have new valves and springs taken care of. The engine pops through the exhaust when it is warm and looses all power.

I am ok with my hands, I can build things, I have replaced water pumps in tight squeezes and timing belts in a Geo Metro.

How hard, on a scale of 1 to 10 , is taking the engine out with a jack and the correct hand tools (after disconnecting wires and hoses)??? Are those 4 engine support nuts really, really hard to reach?

a 1-10 job?

Thanks LLB

Reply to
LLBrown
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first time, reserve a weekend for it and go slow. Second time, all you need is a couple of hours.

After that, you can squeeze it down to one hour, or 15minutes even. :D

This should help you, save the url and visit later if the site is down due to traffic.

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Jan

Reply to
Jan

Jan wrote a nice article here:

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Also bookmark:
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However, I'm not convinced that "valves and springs" are at the root of your problem...

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

First time about a 7. After that, it goes down pretty quickly. Wanna get real easy? Get a bus! Rear main seals in North Carolina State Parks are a breeze .... when you're driving from Texas to Virginia! Andy

Reply to
Andy

Add to that a very long socket extension, possibly two, so the top left (left is driver's side) nut can be reached. My paws are just too big to get in there.

Reply to
Pico
4 | engine support nuts really, really hard to reach? | | a 1-10 job?

My 16 y.o. grand daughter can do a R&R in ~ 4 hour. No specal tools except for two HD floor jack and jack stands.

I've been doing them for near 50 years and it takes me a day to a day and a half (minus beer runs and creeper naps).

Reply to
NotMe

It only takes me 2 tools (a craftsman 6in 1 screw driver and a 17 mm wrench) + the floor jack and about 15min or less. And if I can do it it should be easy for anyone.

Go for it its one of the things you learn to enjoy.

I was just asked tonight to build an engine for an airboat . So sorry to hijack the tread but whats anyones idea what would be the best way to go useing a 1300 block?

Mario Vintage Werks resto

Reply to
Kafertoys

Creepy naps? Oh, creeper naps. :)

I do it differently than most folks - take off the deck lid, then take the top of the engine off (fan, generator, carb, oil cooler, etc), so I don't have to jack the car up so high before pulling the engine. Probably about

1-1.5 hours the last time I pulled it (1996). Probably slower to put in because I'm cleaning and replacing and tuning as I go.
Reply to
Michael Cecil

"LLBrown" schreef in bericht news:gebpi.10393$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net...

Just like the rest says... easy.. But it's slightly different with a T4 engine heaving dual carbs compared to, say, a pre '60 1200cc stock engine...

Roger

Reply to
bug '59

I like to set the motor on the ground, and then pull it out the SIDE, where I have removed the rear tire. You only have to lift the car around 19 inches, instead of nearly thirty inches to remove the engine intact under the rear apron.

Reply to
vwluvrs

I jack the Bug up high. Put the stands in, lower it on 'em. Remove the left rear wheel. Put a cradle under the engine and jack it up until it JUST touches (don't wanna put a lot of stress on the bolts), and then scream, cuss and swear a lot cause my big arms hardly fit anywhere and eventually the engine comes out very nicely.

By that time my old lady has cut me off, the neighbors have put their kids in protective custody, and our neighborhood constable, Big Jim is standing beside me begging me to shut the hell up and not to ask him to help. It all works out.

Reply to
jjs

That's what I do (and document on my website) :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan

hmm... here's how *I* do it:

Unplug the military spec electrical plugs from the inner fender wall socket. (Taillight wires, one twist and a tug, and they are disconnected). Remove 3 or 4 fender bolts on each side, one bolt from between the fender and running board per side, plus 2 more M8 bolts on each side that hold the rear clip in place. Slide the rear apron and fenders out and off of the guide rails in one big piece.

Then I realize that I really don't need to remove the engine from the car, because there's no longer anything surrounding it, everything is nicely accessible and I can tear it down to a shortblock without removing it.

Takes me 5 mins, 10minutes if I go slow?

If I do decide to pull it, I first disconnect the throttle cable and main fuel line, and then unplug the 7-pin multi-connector that holds all the electrical wires. Put a jack under the engine, remove the top and bottom engine mounting bolts through the access door at the bottom of the luggage compartment, and pull the darn lump straight out.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Before selling all of my other cars and engines, I could swap in any engine I had, since they all had the same standard for wiring quick-connects and such :)

Oh, I never need to go under the car or jack the car up to pull the engine

:D

Jan

Reply to
Jan

| >My 16 y.o. grand daughter can do a R&R in ~ 4 hour. No specal tools except | >for two HD floor jack and jack stands. | >

| >I've been doing them for near 50 years and it takes me a day to a day and a | >half (minus beer runs and creeper naps). | | Creepy naps? Oh, creeper naps. :) | | I do it differently than most folks - take off the deck lid, then take the | top of the engine off (fan, generator, carb, oil cooler, etc), so I don't | have to jack the car up so high before pulling the engine. Probably about | 1-1.5 hours the last time I pulled it (1996). Probably slower to put in | because I'm cleaning and replacing and tuning as I go.

We keep a fully built spare in the shop which is used to power a gen set when the power goes out. This jig/rig is also useful for rebuilds.

Out / in ... want to see that again?

Reply to
NotMe

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