engine temp.

well, i had a chance to pull out the oil pressure relief valve, and the oil control valve, the had a few scratches on them, but not to bad, but i did go ahead and smooth them back up with some 1200 grit sandpaper, then i installed a mechanical oil pressure guage. when hot it has about 10psi at idle, and 35 or so when i speed the engine up. so im thinking thats fine. im gonna pull the dizzy tomorrow and see what that looks like, hopefully i will find the problem then. thanks alot. matt

i pulled the dizzy, and found that the oil hole won't line up with the window in the case, unless i turn the dizzy to the left untill the vac. can hits the fuel pump. is there something i'm missing, or do i have the wrong dizzy for my engine? thanks matt

Put the distributor back in and rotate your engine to top dead center for #1 cylinder. Take out the distributor and see if your distributor drive lines up like your book shows. I am guessing that you are a tooth or two off.

If you are off, then pull your fuel pump to hold the washers at the base of the distributor drive and pull the drive out and rotate it so it lines up correctly when seated. I use a small expandable hole guage to get into the hole where the spring is to lift out the distributor drive and a piece of stiff wire to hold the washers. The washers will want to come with the drive gear and will get everything stuck because the washers can't clear the gears.

Be careful not to drop the washers into the engine. - Bob

ive looked at the the gear, with everything lined up as the book shows, and it is what looks like 1 tooth off clockwise, so i got me a drive puller, and got my drive lined back up properly.

but that didnt help! it did get my distributor turned closer to my fuel pump, but it still wasnt far enough, i did try 1 tooth left of straight up, and that was too far , so i put it back like the book called for. but regardless of where the rotor is pointing, there is no way i can turn the distributor and make the oil hole line up with the oil window in the case, unless i take the fuel pump , and its studs out. i do know that the #'s on the car, engine, and distributor all match, so i know it aint the wrong distributor. and as for the distributor drive turning when i had the motor out for the clutch job, it couldnt have, i didnt take the flange below the fuel pump out when the motor was out, so the drive was misaligned when i got the car. while i was checking the shaft and all, i replaced the seals for the oil cooler, and rechecked for obstruction, and there was none., the flaps in the fan housing were all fine, facing down, nothing on top of cylinders. i did get rid of the electric fuel pump, so that is out of the picture. even ran a ground wire from the condensor to the bolt at the bottom of the carb. after i did all this, i went for a test drive. i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F i was thinking everything was fine, so i turned around and headed home, when i got here, she cut off on me. i looked, and the darn rubber had melted again. i wiggled it to break the ground connection, and she fired right back up. the temp had gotten up to whatever back around to 40F on a analog themometer going up to 220F would be. someone please help! thanks matt

Matt,

I believe Bob may be incorrect, with relation to the position of the hole. I have sent Bob some information for discussion, I have yet to receive his reply.

You say the flaps are "facing down", but are they opening? With regards to the "darn rubber" melting. Is it really rubber? All the distributers I have, use a "themoplastic" as the insulator for the wires.

Grahame from Australia

QUOTE: "i went out about 12 miles, and it had gotten up to 210F"

If accurate, this is way out of line on a Type 1.

I think this whole distributor oiling issue has become a red herring and distraction from whatever is causing the high engine temps.

Not being there for a "hands on", I don't have any more suggestions beyond what you have already checked (thoroughly, I might add).

Speedy Jim

Are you referring to the fact that the "window" in the case appears to open onto the area where the drive dog meets the housing, rather than the oil hole? The vertical groove would then carry the oil from this area to the hole. This would mean that it does not matter where the oil hole was facing, as it is generally not facing the window, as far as I can see.

could the seal between the engine and the rear apron (right above the muffler) be causing this? during the clutch job, most of the seal at the rear of the engine compartment got broken off. the sides are still in place. im wondering if air that passes over the engine is being brought back up through that hole, and just blowing hotter, and hotter air over the engine. just a thought. matt

Matt, you would'nt be the same Matt that used to visit this group several years ago as a very young troll? If you are, you have matured and have a much better manner and again are playing the best in our group like a piano. Congrats if you are. Of course the dist is very hot as are most other parts of a hot engine.

nope, not the same matt, just a guy with a hot bug, thats driving him CRAZY!

any missing tinware or rubber seals can cause an engine to overheat...those issues need to be addressed first....you are running too hot and heating up too fast....this could ruin your engine pretty quickly...

do you think taking my engine lid off and driving it would let me know if the seal is all of my problem? thanks matt

according to some well known names in the vw industry, taking the decklid off increases the chances of the turbulent air at the rear of the vehicle making its way back into the engine compartment....not sure if it would help you or not....but one thing i am sure of, the engine compartment seals are cheap and relatively easy to install...if yours are that bad(that they are falling apart) you need to replace them....reguardless of if you "suspect" them to be the problem or not....can you take some pictures of your engine/compartment/tinware and post them on a site somewhere? Pictures would really help alot...

i dont have a way to get pictures on here, wish i could though. but i can tell you that everything is covered, but the space at the rear where the seal is broken