Engine Turns off at Idle

Hi All,

My '70 Bug has been acting up. It has been running fine until a couple of months ago when it shut off at a stop light. However, it started right back up. And drove fine for a few weeks.

Then it happened again, and again, gradually getting closer and closer to eachother. The other day, I backed out of my parking spot and it died. There's no noise. It just turns off. I tried starting it and it wouldn't start so I pushed it back in the parking spot and came back a few hours later and she started up just fine and died like two blocks away. But this time it Backfired. Timing right? Well I just Adjusted the timing and started it up and it died. The idle seemed really low, like it wasn't getting something it should be.

It always dies out of gear. When I put it in neutral and release the clutch pedal it dies. I also tried adjusting the idle air screw, but no luck. I adjusted the idle screw before I thought of adjusting timing and it drove me around for about an hour. And died.

I'm tempted to take her to a mechanic, because I'm trying to sell her fast. I recently bought a '71 Bus, so she has to go. Any Suggestions to get her in working order?

Thanks, JBenziger

Reply to
JBenziger
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check the fuel shutoff solenoid. It's ether faulty internally, loosing contact wire is loose corroded or terminal is getting loose. turn on ignition (don't start the car) go back to the engine comparment and disconnect wire that goes to the fuel shutoff solenoid you should hear a click. If there is no click check whether you getting power on that wire with voltmeter. if no power then then something wrong with the wire that is going from the coil to solenoid. if you do have power then it's time to replace solenoid.

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- 16A
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- 25A referred as Idling cut-off valve

might be someth> Hi All,

Reply to
anton

I don't know if I have that exact Carburator. It says it's a H30/31 Pict Solex Carb. But it doesn't have the exact same "idle solenoid valve" so I pulled the only one on the right side and I heard a distinct clicking every time it touched and separated. So I'm guess that was the same thing as the "fuel shutoff solenoid" or "idle solenoid valve". I used a voltmeter to check all the connections travelling to the Carburator. They all seem to be working. Any other ideas?

Reply to
JBenziger

Yes, your carb has an actual idle fuel cutoff. It's combined with the idle jet. Do make certain that the jet/solenoid is screwed in tightly.

My suspicion is an intermittent in the ignition circuit. That includes the Coil (+) feed, the points, condensor. The backfire is a tipoff here, possibly.

The push-on terminals are often a problem when the metal loses its tension. Give each wire termination a very gentle tug and feel if the terminal is tight. Check that the male terminals on the Coil itself don't have any "give" too.

Last, if the distributor has vacuum advance, open it up and check very carefully the tiny braided "pigtail" lead to the advance plate. If it's broken, the distributor points will lose their ground at certain positions of the advance.

If these tests don't show anything, you might have to put a test lamp on the Coil (+) feed.

These intermittents can be tough to track down. Stay with it.

Speedy Jim

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"I have no use for a car which has more spark plugs than a cow has teats!" Henry Ford, when advised that Chevrolet was introducing a 6-cylinder engine.

Reply to
Speedy Jim

I adjusted the screw which in this picture is #11 & #14. Is 11 supposed to be tight? Because when I loosened it, It sounded healthier, revving a little louder. Is this the screw I'm supposed to be adjusting? Are they supposed to be tight? I'm kinda new at Carbs.

Reply to
JBenziger

I adjusted the screw which in this picture is #11 & #14. Is 11 supposed to be tight? Because when I loosened it, It sounded healthier, revving a little louder. Is this the screw I'm supposed to be adjusting? Are they supposed to be tight? I'm kinda new at Carbs.

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Reply to
JBenziger

Check this link at Rob and Dave's Air Cooled VW Resource:

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Reply to
Jim347a

One time my H30/31 PICT was acting up. It had a jammed needle valve in the top of the carb. I just disconnected the battery, sprayed the carb top with B-12 Chemtool, carefully removed the carb top, removed the needle valve, pulled out the wood splinter that had jammed the needle valve and sprayed out the needle valve with carb cleaner, sprayed out the hole it screws in, put everything back tgether, and it ran fine. I also quit using a pencil to plug the fuel hose.

That thiing that looks like a bolt head which a jet screws into needs to be kind of tight. It also acts as a plug for the bottom of the carb sediment bowl. If it is loose gas will leak out.

Reply to
Jim347a

Hi,

I'd been having this very same problem with my '74 standard recently. It's got a 34-Pict, and I'd notice occasionally that the round electrical doohikus on the side had come lose. I'd screw it back in when I thought about it, but it usually worked lose again. It look me an embarassingly long time to realise that when I screwed it back in, it would idle like it was supposed to until it rattled back out. I'd forgotten it was a big vacuum leak. Some thread tape or something would be ideal, but I just wrenched on it a bit more and its stuck.

Something to think about at least.

Peace, Harry

Reply to
Harry Smith

Hi,

I'd been having this very same problem with my '74 standard recently. It's got a 34-Pict, and I'd notice occasionally that the round electrical doohikus on the side had come lose. I'd screw it back in when I thought about it, but it usually worked lose again. It look me an embarassingly long time to realise that when I screwed it back in, it would idle like it was supposed to until it rattled back out. I'd forgotten it was a big vacuum leak. Some thread tape or something would be ideal, but I just wrenched on it a bit more and its stuck.

Something to think about at least.

Peace, Harry

Reply to
Harry Smith

My type 3 had similar problems. Checked/replaced electrics/petrol filters/points/plugs/distributor over a 6 month period with no effect. Turned out to be leaking inlet manifolds. Regasketed with a sealant, no problem. May be worth a try. John

Reply to
john

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