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floor pan questions

Ok, so I'm going to take the body off the pan this weekend I believe. I think a six pack will help me lure three friends into helping! Now, while I've got it off, I've got holes in the back of both sides of the pan--bigger on the passenger side of course. I'm reluctant to replace the entire pan, and I'm not sure if I want to mess with the rear half pan pieces w/o the seat track. Maybe just pick up two of the battery tray pieces? ( like this one

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) what do you all think?

Also, I've got a little hole on the driver side, bottom corner of the side panel (right up against the fender, etc). Where should I look for a small piece to patch that?

Thanks everyone--first time I've done this kinda restore work! Taking it slow, doing it right...

Here she is if anyone was wondering:

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Also, door panels are in decent condition, all there, but a little dirty. And the back seat is pretty much still upholstered with orig. material. I'm leaning towards redoing it all, since I'll have to do the headliner too (and I'm not uber-anal about originality, just slightly! Keep it the right color...etc). Would anyone be interested in this stuff if I decide to do my own? And I guess if anyone wants other original chrome stuff, I may replace that too, if anyone wants it that badly. I figure one completely OG oval out there is better than two partially OG !

I think that's enough for now :-p I'll leave you all alone

Brian (ah)

Reply to
Briantelope
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I just did some floor work to my 70 Beetle. I wirebrushed everything well to see all the holes. Cut out the flimsiest metal. Painted all the rust with POR 15. Used non-adhesive cloth tape for mobile home roof seams and painted that on with more POR over the pin holes. Cut a piece of thin aluminum sheet (~1/16") for the large hole under the battery. Riveted that in then fiberglassed in the seam. Everything came out good enough that I can stand on all the repairs. Bob

Reply to
Robert

yeah? that sounds pretty good. if I can't find some reasonably priced pieces to weld in, I'll give that a shot

thanks!

Brian (word)

Reply to
Briantelope

Reply to
Ben Boyle

Hey Brian Maybe take pictures on what you are doing and plaster them on the web someplace.

I - for one - would be very interested in seeing them, since I intend to do the same thing when the weather clears up here in CT.

I have one of the bugme videos, showing you how to do it - should you want to borrow it, let me know.

Remco

Reply to
Remco

awesome, thanks man. I'll definitely post some pics once I start doing it

Brian

Reply to
Briantelope

yeah, I do have a guy with a welder that would do it for nothin', so that's a plus..

Brian

Reply to
Briantelope

If you are going to pull the body off why not go full bore and replace both the pan halves using FULL pans? I think it was worth it... but thats my opinion... : ) Kinda sweet knowing that there is new metal in the floor...

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****************************************************************dragenwagen

1966 Type I - Daily Driver
Reply to
dragenwagen

My 2 cents: If you're *restoring* an oval, weld in new high-quality (the thick ones) floor pans. Check previous posts & you'll find the info on the best pans (I don't have it). If you're building a daily driver & don't care if it's original, then rivet in some nice thick sheetmetal (aliminum or steel) & seal it with brushable seam sealer. No need (In fact it's worse) to "seal" it with fiberglass. On the 1/4 panel hole, I would cut out the rust & weld in a peice of scrap steel. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

Reply to
ThaDriver

mainly because I don't want to pay twice as much for them :-p but I know what you mean. I may just wait until I've got some more bread to replace them. hmm

Brian

Reply to
Briantelope

It's too late for me but why is it worse to use fiberglass?

Reply to
Robert

Reply to
D&LBusch

Sounds reasonable... but then again my pans were SHOT I had rust every where and the battery replacement panels were not an option.... beside I think you're right... I did wait til i had the cash to lay out on a set of full pans. But regardless... I am happy with the results of the full pans.

Reply to
dragenwagen

I fiberglassed the pans on my '72 beetle years ago.... bad battery tray rust through. But I only did the inside and the bottom kept rusting. BTW the fiberglass did seperate a few years later. Probably because it doesnt actually seal the surface... letting moisture in, which will cause it still rust. Fiberglassing over rust is like a temp repair. I have seen it pop off after years of being there...

To me - cut and weld is the only way to properly repair rust... you know the bad, crusty kind, surface rust can be dealt with.

Reply to
dragenwagen

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