So I finally figured out what the problem is with my engine: Loose flywheel !
So what should I do now ? I can take the dowel pins out with my fingers, not sure if this is supposed to be this way (I guess not).
With the pins in, but the gland nut off, I can move the wheel a bit back and forth, so I guess the holes are out of round ? Or is it just a matter of using new pins ?
Keep in mind that this is on a stock 1600SP, by no means a HiPo motor :D
Rob.
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First, you need to figure out why it came loose.
Second, you need to eliminate the problem.
Finally, you need to re-install the flywheel after reaming it and the crankshaft to accept larger dowel pins (a standard repair procedure).
So... why did it come loose? Probably because it was improperly installed. The mating surfaces between the crank and flywheel have to be truly flat. Any... ANY irregularity that prevents them from fitting perfectly flush causes the flywheel to be cocked at an angle. Using the clutch exerts an asymmetric load on the flywheel causing the high side to act as a lever (usual symptoms are 'juddering' or shuddering as the clutch is engaged). The levering action defeats the compression of the gland nut and its warpy washer and you now have a nice, loose flywheel...
There's about a dozen other things that can loosen up a flywheel but the above is the one I've seen most often in recent years. Other problems, such as over-torquing the gland nut, improper end-float, imbalance of either the flywheel or the pressure plate, improper installation of the engine to the tranny... all leave additional forensic evidence and produces precursor symptoms I've not seen mentioned in your posts.
The fix is fairly simple but you probably aren't tooled up for it. The basic idea is to mount the flywheel, centered & true, using only TWO dowels. You then ream out the two open holes and install oversize dowel pins. Dismantle, remove the two original dowels, reassemble and do the two remaining holes. Dismantle, clean everything up, chamfer the newly reamed holes in the flywheel, deburr and reassemble using a new gland nut and warpy washer.
-R.S.Hoover
Yeah........after Bugzilla told you. Credit where credit's due and all that.
Dave
Riiiiiiiiiight.
Wow, talk about information. Thanks very much, one more question though: Do I need to remove the crank for the engine for this procedure or will the machine shop be able to do this while the crank is still in the motor ?
Thanks,
Rob.
BTW, thanks to Bugzilla and Speedy Jim for diagnosing my problem ;-)
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