Full flow oil kit with cooler

I just bought a oil cooler kit i just have one little question about it, i am relativly new to the true mechanics of a flat 4 and just need to know where the oil pressure regulator springs go, how do i tell tell if mine is single or twin port?

Reply to
Paul Soames
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You might as well add a spin on oil filter if you do not have one.

Pay attention to the hoses.

They will leak or even burst sometimes.

what do you mean exactly by 'flat four'?

Is it a Type I engine from a Beetle, Ghia, or Thing?

Is it a Type II engine from a VW Bus?

Is it a Type III engine from a VW Squareback sedan?

Or is it a Type IV engine?

If it is a Type I flat four engine, you can tell if it is a single or dual port by looking at the top of the cylinder heads. If there is one hole, it is a single port. If there are two holes, it is a dual port. But you can't really dtermine that unless the intake manifold has been removed. You can also tell by the intake manifold, the thing the carburator is mounted to. I think there are three different types. Two types of single intake manifolds and a three piece dual port intake manifold. If it is a three piece manifold with rubber boots connecting the three pieces, that is a good indication that it is a dual port. Pay attention to those rubber boots. If they crack or deteriorate, it can ruin your engine by causing a lean air:fuel mixture. When you replace them, get the red or orange silicone, not urethane, intake manifold boots. They last the longest. The black urethane boots are crap and will wear out in one year. A little more hassle because of the boots, but the dual port engine is better than the single port. What type of fan shroud do you have? if it is the late style, 1971 and up, then it should have a bulge on the firewall side where the offset oil cooler lives. If you have this style, you probably do not need an oil cooler and you should try and get your money back.

As for the oil pressre regulator springs, some engines have one and some have two. I will go look at geneberg.com to see where they go and try and get back to you.My 1973 Be has two springs, but I can't remember.

You might want to get these books. How To Keep Your Aircooled VW Alive by John Muir a Robert Haynes aircooled VW manual for your model. The Bently VW Owners Workshop manual for your model. Stay away from the Chilton's manual. They ain't what the used to be.

You might want to get some of the 'Bug Me' videos by Rick Higgins. Sometimes the spoken work is better than the written word.

cya jp73bttl

Reply to
Sleepy Joe

"Paul Soames" wrote in message news:...

I got this from geneberg.com I hope it helps!

Oil Filter, Cooler & Oil Passage Plugs ? Technical Information Don't Blow Your Top (cooler, gallery plugs or oil filter)!! Many of you have "blown" apart your oil filter, cooler or even the oil passage plugs. What a mess! This is always costly, frustrating and time consuming especially when it seems to always blow the plug behind the flywheel. Why does this happen? There could be a number of reasons. First, you need to understand how the oil system works. The stock oil pump must produce much more pressure than the engine requires to overcome restrictions and losses through the engine oil passages. It must also be capable of making up for wear as the engine gets old. This excess capability in a new engine is approximately 70 to 80% over the needs of a new or like new engine and is regulated by the oil pressure relief valve.

VW has used two types of case designs to do specific jobs; the single and dual relief valve types. Actually both designs are excellent with the main difference being that the single type has both the directional (to the cooler or not to the cooler) and the regulating (excess spill off) valve as one unit. When the oil is cold this valve is pushed down past the 2nd bypass hole. The top one is to allow oil to go to the engine without going through the cooler. The

2nd one (lower) actually passes the excess oil back to the sump near the cam gear area. The engine oil pressure is maintained by this "bypass" orifice. The factory was smart to design this bypass orifice to pass the specific volume of extra oil that the stock engine doesn't need to lube itself. Remember this point, as that's what this information is all about. The dual oil pressure relief valve cases separate the two functions. The 1st valve (pulley end) still controls whether the oil goes to the cooler or not. The 2nd valve (flywheel end) regulates the oil pressure after it has gone past all of the rest of the engine's needs. This was necessary when they made the oil galleries larger in the block so the heads could receive a greater volume of oil to assist in cooling the smog controlled engines. This provides a higher constant pressure in the main oil gallery and follower area.

Again, the orifice is a specific size to allow the oil pressure to be maintained at a pressure that will protect the oil cooler, gallery plugs and full flow filter (if you have a filter that is an HP1 or equivalent). When you jack the oil pressure up with too large of an oil pump you override the capability of the bypass orifice. If you put in stronger springs and/or different cup(s) combinations (which should never be done), you will restrict the orifice size or possibly close it off.

Again, these are bandages on your elbow for a sore on your knee.

If the engine is within factory tolerances, even the original factory smaller 21mm VW pump produces over 150 PSI (at the pump), which is more than adequate for any VW engine. I've even seen some produce over 200 PSI and a 26mm make over 300 PSI when cold. Remember, if you are watching a pressure gauge in your car, it takes the reading after the relief valves and line loss restrictions and that's why you may only see 40 or 80 PSI on a gauge yet still have over 300 PSI at the pump, filter, etc. Those all come before the relief systems and that's where the majority of blow outs occur from the following areas:

  1. When oil is too heavy for cold temperature.
  2. When a super big pump is installed to make up for wear, running too hot or any other low oil pressure problem you have. When the oil is the coldest is when the possibility of a blow out is highest.
  3. When using oversize oil pressure relief valve springs and/or cups. Why not make the bypass orifice bigger? If enlarged to allow more passage of oil when cold, then there's too little pressure when the oil is warm. VW was extremely smart with this regulating system to control not only pressure, but directional control to bypass the cooler when cool, so do not mess with it unless you are a lot smarter than VW. That is the reason we designed the special Gene Berg relief cover. The Gene Berg oil pressure relief valve pump cover handles all of these problems by going beyond the capability of the stock relief valve system. When the oil pressure reaches 125 PSI, it relieves directly back into the inlet side of the pump, maintaining 100 to 125 PSI (at the pump) even with cold oil and/or when bigger pumps such as our 30mm are used. This protects the filter, cooler, and galleries from surge blasts of over pressure when cold, yet maintains more than enough oil pressure when hot. Furthermore, it will not disrupt the redirection of the oil to the cooler (as all other fixes do) so the oil will properly warm up. The Gene Berg pressure relief valve oil pump cover can be used with full flow oil filters or installed for its safety relief valve feature alone. Even better, it keeps the oil in the circuit so less oil is needed from the pickup tube. The oil is returned directly to the pump rather than being wasted off at the oil pressure relief hole location that is a long distance from the pickup tube. Originated and manufactured by Gene Berg from 1984. SW 2#

About Oil Coolers ? Technical Info

We do not sell remote mount oil coolers or any aftermarket fan housings. Not even the dog house Taiwan copies, as they do not provide the proper cooling or thermostat control locations that are critical to engine life. Why not, after all there is a lot of money to be made in this market? Because our commitment is to you, and not just how much money we can make. We do not want you to think we endorse such changes, think that they are better or that you had to have it. Because of all the extremely inaccurate articles and rumors, we have made thousands of temperature tests since 1971 and will continue to do so. These tests were quite eye opening and verified that the stock VW parts created the best cooling unless you were willing to spend far more for the cooling changes than the complete car was worth. Our temperature tests showed that the VW was so well engineered that practically every change we made to the cooling system from stock ran much hotter. When we tested air flow inside the fan housing and cylinder shrouds, every change from stock reduced air flow to one location or another, causing higher temperatures at one location or another. Removing the oil cooler inside of the fan housing (through 1970) raised the temperature at the 3/4 head as much as 50 degrees F above normal. That's right, it went up by 50 degrees, not down like the people selling outside coolers would like you to believe. In fact, upon looking at some of the ads for outside coolers they stated that the 3/4 head changed by 50 degrees, and never stated that it would cool better than stock. Air pressure (flow) was drastically reduced at the head and increased at the lower part of the 3/4 cylinders. Even 1 and 2 temperature went up due to the lower restriction on 3 and 4. Further investigating inside the fan housing revealed that VW's air vortexes and directional vanes put the air in the exact locations needed at the correct velocity and that the cooler must be in place to direct the air over the cooler and along the top of the fan housing. This straightens it out to go down straight through the head and cylinder fins with the highest efficiency. We even discovered that the thermostat shutters are directional devices to direct air to the proper locations through warm up and also when they are opened all the way to direct air to the most critical areas. Speaking of thermostats, removing the shutters and the thermostat increases engine wear 15% to 17% and often causes cracked heads even in southern California. Naturally, the percentage is much higher in colder areas. The internal engine parts cannot heat up and expand together at the proper rate when the thermostat is removed. The inside grows from heat and the outside is being cooled far too much and is kept small. This means valves, guides, piston and cylinders, pins and rod bearings are all being subjected to stress and abnormal wear without the thermostat and shutters. After all, you don't take the thermostat out of your new water cooled car do you? The dog house oil cooler and bigger fan (100 CFM more air that will not fit most aftermarket fan housings) set-up introduced in 1971 proved superior in all tests by as much as 70 degrees F over aftermarket coolers or fan housings. It is even superior to the one that is made and imported from VW of Brazil that uses the smaller early steel oil cooler rather than the bigger aluminum cooler we normally see in the USA. This is partly because the fan that fits the genuine VW dog housings is wider and supplies far more air. Every test was better by at least 30 degrees F. And the next best was the pre

1971 fan housing stock cooling set-up. One interesting note was that when I installed the 1971 system in my 1967 VW, I had to add more air intake. The convertible louvered trunk lid was required to get full cooling benefit and take advantage of the higher CFM fan. Yes, I realize that these lids are hard to find and suggest propping the trunk lid open a couple inches at the bottom if you do not have the convertible lid. Again, my suggestion is that you solve the overheating problem of the engine, which is causing the oil to overheat. After all, if your Chevy was overheating it's unlikely that you would put an extra radiator on its roof, so why put a bandage on your elbow for the sore on your knee to fix your VW? The only thing that can cause overheated oil is an overheated head. Even if you cool the oil, the head temperature is still running far beyond normal, as you never fixed the source of the overheating problem. I have never experienced any overheating of any engine with the correct CR, carburetion, timing, distributor, and proper octane fuel regardless of HP output even 200 HP daily driven. If you absolutely must hang a cooler on your car, ADD IT to a full flow system (remember, full flow comes directly from the pump) and maintain the original stock oil cooler. Do not substitute it for the original. The more we tested, the more apparent it became that the heads are the source of the heat. We found the CR and volumetric efficiency of the engine is a large factor. When heads, CR, carburetion, exhaust and cam are all correctly matched to the engine so the volume of fuel (proper octane) and air is what the engine wants, the engine runs cooler and lasts longer. For long life, we recommend conservative compression ratios, especially because pump gasoline quality has been going down, down, down from the good old days. Remember, in 1974 you could still get Chevron White pump gas that was rated at 103 octane and Union 76 purple gas that was around 104 octane and they had 3.0 grams of lead per gallon average. In those days we had street engines with 10.0:1 and even used power pulleys without cooling problems. For more about cooling order GB 801-COOLING, GB 801-CR, and GB 801-HEADS. Note: I have had many people make adverse comments about my cooling and CR tests and recommendations. It is obvious these people do not daily drive an air cooled VW for over 100,000 miles of testing or have not considered that I do not make any money by recommending that you keep your stock cooling system that you likely already have or lowering your CR to match the octane of the fuel. I am committed to your engine running correctly and living as long as possible.
Reply to
Sleepy Joe

These sites might be of use:

R.A.M.V.A - Aircooled VW Technical Support Index

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John Henry's Bug Shop

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and I got this from Rob and Dave's Aircooled Volkswagen Pages At

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Oil Coolers

General Conclusions An external oil cooler is not required on dog-house engines up to

2000cc. Do not use a tube-type oil cooler. When installing an external oil cooler use AN8 (1/2") aircraft type fittings and high pressure oil hose with an internal diameter of 1/2". Racers and those serious about durability use Aeroquip fittings and hose, or their non-aircraft certified counterpart. When mounted away from the air inlet, an auxiliary fan is required. The fan is normally wired in series with a thermostatically controlled switch. Final Conclusions When you install an external oil cooler you are doing something VW should have done in the first place, and which they got around to in 1971. This 'Better Late Than Never' brand of retro-fit engineering also applies to oil filters and hydraulic cam followers, which VW incorporated in its late Type IV engines. The smartest move you can make when installing an external oil cooler is to install it in conjunction with a full-flow oil filtration system, in which case it is installed downstream of the filter, usually on the other side of a thermostatically controlled valve. Depending on the plumbing runs, an external oil cooler and filter will increase your oil capacity by about 1.3 quarts. Aside from doubling the life of your engine the most significant change you'll see is a slightly longer warm-up time. With a filter installed you can extend your oil change period to 3,000 miles (non-dusty conditions). Copyright © 1995 Robert S. Hoover
Reply to
Sleepy Joe

Thanks Sleepy Joe, I think i must have been half asleep myself when i wrote that post. It is a definately a twin port should of known that but i thought the breif instructions that came with the kit was refering to the oil system. It is a type 1 with 1914cc so that oil cooler is required especially now the days are getting hotter. Its twin 44IDF webbers on a 1973 1303. There is a Fram HP1 filter included in the kit too which is the main reason for installing it. Thanks for the info from Gene Berg i will sit down a read carefully.

Reply to
PauL Soames

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