hard starting

That "banging" noise sounds disturbing.

First, do a complete tune up (valves, timing) and also check/replace the spark plugs.

plugs and wires were actually replaced last month - I replaced the wires cause I somehow broke one when replacing the plugs. and "banging" may be a bit severe of a word, but there is a definite low and almost consistant bang, like metal plate on metal, which occurs and especially on heavy exceleration, which by the location and sound I am hoping is a loose head, but I am concerned by it as well.

Patrick

That "banging" noise sounds disturbing.

First, do a complete tune up (valves, timing) and also check/replace the spark plugs.

...........If you've done the ignition timing, valve adjustment, plug replacement, points adjustment things...........the next step is a compression test. A loose head would create low compression and a loss of power. This compression check should be done right away before you drive it much longer.

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 20:38:44 -0500, "Tim Rogers" ran around screaming and yelling:

Tim is correct....as a matter of fact *I* wouldn't drive it nor start it again untill this is done....if the head is indeed loose, then the combustion process will burn the head and that can mean you will need to at minimum resurface the head and then shim the cylinder to bring the compression back into specs, or you may end up having to replace the head and cylinder if the burning is too severe.... J

Sounds like our '71 SB when we first brought it home. You could get it to start, with a lot of coaxing and, usually, a push-start (after the battery went flat from running the starter).

I chased all the usual suspects (ignition, fuel delivery, etc.). Upon advice from here, I checked the compression. Being a newbie of sorts, and following someone's advice to make sure to check cylinder #3 because they tend to have the most problems, I *only* checked cylinder #3. Compression was a pretty good 100 psi. So, I delved on, chasing ignition, fuel, etc. problems, replacing parts and so on.

Finally, I did compression checks on all four cylinders. Cylinder #3 was still a fairly healthy 100 psi. The other three ranged from a wheezing 20 psi up to a paltry 55 psi.

Now, we have a nice, rebuilt 1600 DP in there and it fires up and runs like a champ (with the same fuel and ignition components I took off the old motor).

Malcolm '69 Bug (Gus) '71 SB (Herbie)

.................This is a great testamonial for the help that's available here at RAMVA.

That banging and low power on hills sounds like what happened to mine. The cam gear connection to the cam itself wallowed out the 3 rivets holding it together so the cam timing was way off. I'd hear a click when turning the engine to adjust valves etc. and noisy on idle. tore the engine apart and replaced the cam.

Got any means to measure voltage?

1: Turn on the ignition 2: Open engine hood 3: Measure voltage at the ignition coils screw terminal. The hot one. Or measure both and note the higher voltage.

At least 11 volts are ok. If you got less, wire up a solenoid that switches +12 directly to the coil when the ignition is on. Generally a good idea. no luck? Now comes the tricky part.

4: Get a second person. 5: Install your voltmeter again. 6: Make sure the wires keep clear of the v-belt. 7: Let person #2 crank th engine while you measure the voltage.

If the meter reads 5-6 volts, thats normal due to the voltage drop from the starter motor. Zero or erratic values indicate a broken ignition switch. It switches off the ignition while the starter cranks. no luck?

8: remove the spark plug cables from the spark plug. 9: put a (fifth, if available) spark plug into the wire (my english really sucks) 10: let person #2 crank the engine while you wath the spark. Should be nice and bright and go like smack..smack..smack.. 11: repeat with the other cables. nice sparks? check your carb and compression.

Have fun

Holgerr Trier, Germany