Heat for Feet

It's winter again. Every year about this time I get a raft of messages asking what they can do about the poor heating in their bug or bus.

Most don't like what I have to say :-)

The Volkswagen uses a single-pass heater. That is, air is drawn over the heat-exchangers, ducted into the vehicle's interior, then discarded. The 'discarded' is one of the Vast Mysteries of VW ownership. (Well, maybe only Half Vast :-) 'Diiscardedd means you need to provide an OUTLET for the heated air. Crack a window and you may be surprised at the volume of heated air coming from the vents.

The part people don't like to hear is that, after working my way though their list of symptoms, I have to tell about HALF of them that they either don't have stock heat-exchangers, or they don't have a stock blower housing.

The truth is, the VW has a pretty good heater, effective down to about

30 degrees on the Fahrenheit scale. Any colder than that, you may want to consider a gasoline heater, another bit of unwelcome news.

But for a majority of VW owners, simply tuning up their heater can have remarkable results. How do you 'tune-up' your heater? You can start by making sure all of the tin-ware is in place and that you have a functioning thermostat and heater flaps. (More groans, along with half-baked arguments about why they DON'T need a thermostat. You need it.)

Some people have installed 'Recirculating' heaters. That's where they've installed a bilge blower -- or similar air-mover -- to take the air from the cabin and pass it back through the heat exchangers. Each pass adds a bit more heat to the air until it gets hot enough to melt plastic.. and bilge blowers :-)

So why didn't Volkswagen opt for a recirculating heater system? Because of the possibility of carbon monoxide poisoning. With a single-pass system the risk is very low but with a re-circuating system a bad connection to the heat exchangers can kill you.

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Cold weather always produces the same questions -- which have been answered many times by myself and others. Most seem determined to 'prove' their car has a bad heating system, or want some miraculous cure for a rusted-out heat-exchanger. Not gonna happen. Your bug or bus plays strictly by the rules, one of which is that you've got plenty of waste-heat. The trick is to provide the required pressure differential and the necessary ducts to get that heat where it's needed.

Cold toes in your bus? Odds are, someone has removed the lower belly tin. That guarantees you'll never see much heat at your defrosters on your feet. WITH the lower belly tin in place, the heated air is dumped into the cabin... where it looks for an exit. Crack the wind- wing and let the heat flow.

Good engineering, all the way through the system.

-Bob Hoover

Reply to
Bob Hoover
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Hey Bob I find about .o1% of the beetles I work on here in the south that still have the flaps and termostat, but I can still get 150* at the foot for people. I do tell them to open their pop outs and they get better heat ( wonder why it doesn't bother me here that people in my fourm here think I'm a little off?) I've on occation taken the tin that wraps around rusted out mufflers and installed them on the "Cool" aftermarket muffers.

And one of the last buses I had to clean a mouse house out the center tuben which I find in alot of these that have sat for any amount of time.

Reply to
Kafertoys

I get 140-160F at the defroster vents in my ghia(typically 30F higher at the footwell)... I have all the proper cooling and heating components installed and I end up pushing the lever way down after the first few miles even in zero degree weather...

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

I have the stock heating system with thermo and flaps on my '73 Beetle. I hardly ever drive more than 3 miles. The oil temp guage will say 120 F, so 120 + 40 degrees for the gauge being off = 160 F right? Anyway, my point is by the time I get to my destination there is just a little heat coming out. I guess I will have to live with it. At last it doesn't get that cold where I live anymore.

Reply to
Jim347a

Correction this should read, "At least it doesn't get that cold where I live anymore."

Reply to
Jim347a

You could try the fix posted here some years ago. Disconnect the heat duct tube where the come inside the car under the back seat and put on new tubes that run all the way under the front seats. The problem is by the time the heat gets through all the cold steel of the heat channels, there's no heat left. I did this on my bug and the difference was amazing.

Tony

Reply to
Anthony W

I get too much heat in the ghia, and rarely run with the lever more than a quarter of the way up it's travel... 140-160 at the defroster vents is as hot as the heater in my watercooled cars...

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

connect the heat

LOL I some times forget to warn people about resting the foot to close to the floor vent and have to laugh my ass off as they fight to get there right shoe off to cool their foot :o)

Reply to
Kafertoys

Drugs makes things seem a lot funnier than they really are.

Reply to
ryan68bug

I saw that post. I have done that.

The problem is by

I think my prob. is that I do not drive far enough for the heater boxes to start working.

Hmmmmmm. About ten years ago, I replaced my stock heater boxes with the ceramic fins inside with Danish Dansk made stock heater boxes with metal fins inside.

Gym saunas have lava rocks. Maybe if I put some small lava rocks in the heater boxes they would give off more heat. They might do the same job as the ceramic fins in the original heater boxes. Or they might get too hot and cause a fire. any ideas? TIA!

Reply to
Jim347a

All the old heat exchangers I've seen had aluminum fins inside. Are you sure the OEM ones were ceramic?

Lava rocks don't burn but I doubt it would help. I once had an idea to make a water jacketed exhaust system that would heat on all 4 pipes and perhaps a couple small radiators that would catch some of the wast heat from cooling the engine. It would have a heater core inside with a fan on it like on a water pumper. It's probably too much complexity for what little it would gain.

It's like the solenoid operated cooling flap controller I drew up. It's too much work for what it does but when there are no more stock thermostats to be had, it might become a valid option.

I too once had a job only mile from home. I used to take a long drive after work so the oil would heat up to burn off the condensation. I had a small propane catalytic camping tent heater that I kept in the car for really cold days. I'd start it before I cranked up the engine and the heater would have all the windows cleared by the time the engine was warmed up enough to drive. It was a sucky job and I was happy to flip them the bird and leave.

Tony

Reply to
Anthony W

On second thought, the rocks might make a lot of noise. But not as much noise as the rocks I put inside my x-wife's hubcaps. Heh, heh just kidding!

Reply to
Jim347a

There has never been any heatexchangers with ceramic fins inside, only aluminium cast around an oval steel pipe. If they had used ceramics you would not have gotten ANY heat out of it whatsoever..

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

OK my mistake. It was over ten years ago when I thought I saw ceramic fins inside a heater box.

Reply to
Jim347a

The Aluminium becomes rather whiteish with age and corrosion.

J.

Reply to
P.J.Berg

That is what I saw then. They were whitish.

Reply to
Jim347a

the heated air is

This sounds foolish. It is just some of the ideas that I was thinking of, but not considering doing.

I was thinking of putting a wad of tin foil between the lower tin and the push rod tubes on each side of my T-1 engine to help heat the engine faster. Maybe I could wrap two tennis balls with tin foil and attach some heat proof strings to them. Let the engine idle on the drive to let it warm up, get out, pull a string to pull out the wads of tin foil and drive off with the heater working. I would hate to overheat and ruin the thing after all the time and money I have put into it.

Reply to
Jim347a

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