Help! I want to get rid of my engine!

Can anyone help me figure out what type of engine I can swap out in place of the 2000 in my 78 Bus? I want to install an upright from a Beetle. Does anyone know how complicated that would be? Thanks. Rob Echols

Reply to
Robert Echols
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Not very, since your bus came with a "beetle" 1600cc upright engine from the factory (Economy option in Europe, where large displacement engines were subject to heavy taxes)

You need to have a wider engine tin between engine and car body to close the gap.

As long as the engine room is isolated from the underside of the car to keep the heat of the exhaust system and warmed up (used) cooling air out from engine bay.

Note that you will need a rear engine support, VW Beetle engine cases don't have mountin bolt holes for one. Bus cases and "general replacement" cases do. I think type 3 cases do too. (You can use a type

3 engine as well.

Question is, why the hell would you want to put in a weaker, SEVERELY underpowered engine in there, while you already have the best engine ever offered in there?

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Reply to
Robert Echols

The type 4 rebuild or repair costs roughly 2-3 times that os a fype 1.

But consider this: in the same vehicle, the type 1 will need repair or rebuild 2-3 times as often.

What do you gain?

:)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

Rob: Let's try this all over again. Your Bus presently has a 2000cc Type 4 engine. Correct? But you would prefer to remove it and install a Type 1 upright engine (size not yet determined). Correct?

It *can* be done, but the Tupe 1 flywheel is too small in diameter and the transmission input shaft does not mate with the flywheel/crank support bearing.

(Jan knows this subject better than I and could elaborate.)

You would need different engine tin to fill the large hole (or fabricate your own).

The transmission gearing does not favor a smaller engine.

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Reply to
Robert Echols

a type one will last between 10-15k miles in that application, WITH THAT GEARING, between rebuilds. The 2.0L is expensive, but you only have to do it once in a while, the key is getting good parts and not trying to cheap-by, it will come back to bite you for sure.

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

Reply to
John Connolly

funny how life goes, he wants to get rid of exactly what I'm trying to get!!

Reply to
Douglas

Check out Kennedy Engineering they sell adapter kits with flywheels to install Chevy / Ford / Buick / Rover V6's and V8's in VW's. Long term reliable greater HP / Torque etc. Just what you are looking for.

John Buick V6 on a type 2 trans w/reduction boxes in a fiberglass dune buggie with a type 1 chassis. Oh and its painted Hemi Orange!

swap out in place of

a Beetle. Does

Echols

Reply to
jcassara

If you can afford it, there's asking Jake Raby to rebuild yours with high durability components so you get a nice 200K mile torquer that won't leak oil.

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Reply to
David Gravereaux

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Reply to
David Gravereaux

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