How to remove seized sparkplugs

Maybe try to remove it while the engine is still warm? Just a thought..

Plugs in aluminumn heads should be removed COLD. Otherwise they will have high risk of pulling threads out.

Jan

Ken wrote:

If you have the heads removed, then don't worry. Repairing the spark plug threads by installing thread inserts is a common and cheap operation.

Bill, '67 Bug.

And will fail after a couple of plug changes unless you weld the holes shut and re-drill and tap to original size.

:D

Jan

If in the car, blast them with Bust Rust or some other penatrating oil and let it set overnight. Then heat the engine and while hot blast it again, then wait a few minutes. The heat will suck into the threads. Then before trying hit them one more time to lube as it pulls out ( We Hope ). Then put a socket on it and first tighten then try to loosen. Sometimes tightening will help loosen. The the same proceedure for a head of the engine use a torch to create the heat. Joe Cali

On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 23:32:05 +0300, Jan Andersson ran around screaming and yelling:

which will cause the head to become brittle(from the heat of welding) and will lead to weakening of an already crackprone area of the dual port head..... JT

...................It looks like it's once again time to have a spat over whether it's a good idea to use anti-seize on spark plug threads.............lol

..........I use the copper based stuff on my plugs, they never foul or miss and always come right out without damaging the heads.

timmy

Off topic- Hey Tim, here's a picture of the traffic I ran into when I was up north near your location driving around recently trying to get to the hotel:

.................hope you weren't hurt and if you were........hope you have a speedy recovery.

........just be glad that you flipped a rental minivan instead of that #$@^&* jeep!

timmyt

On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 19:46:53 -0400, "Tim Rogers" ran around screaming and yelling:

i've never used anti-seize and never damaged a plughole....if you don't over-torque your plugs and change them when needed, anti-sieze is not necessary... JT

He must have a single port head (assuming he has the original 1500 heads, which are stronger than new dual port heads). Anyway, if the thread inserts are installed properlly (by a head specialist), they don't come off and there is no need for welding. If he has replacement 1600 dual port heads, then a new set of heads is the best way to go.

Bill, '67 Bug.

Some of the VW literature recommends that spark plugs "never be put in dry." I would personally hesitate to use a lubricant that contained metal, because once you get it on the threads in the head there is always some chance of transferring a bit of it to the SP insulator the next time you install a plug.

My lubricant of choice is Dow-Corning Molykote G Paste. It's good to high temps and is completely non-conductive. The non-conductive part is no problem for the spark; there's still plenty of points of contact to the head, but the moly in the paste will not foul a plug any worse than a bit of ordinary oil or grease.

I would avoid the anti-seizes with lead or copper in them, although they are fine for use elsewhere.

----------------------------------------------- Jim Adney snipped-for-privacy@vwtype3.org Madison, WI 53711 USA

-----------------------------------------------

On Sat, 17 Jul 2004 15:02:14 -0500, Jim Adney ran around screaming and yelling:

yep...heard it many times...ignored it everytime......probably recommended the same reason they recommend lubing any fastener type for torque...but not sure...dry has always worked for me, so I'm not changing...heh JT

I use Permatex Anti Seize Lube.

I never had any problem with it.

I will become hard after awhile, but WD-40 will make it gooey again.