After tracking down everything I could think of, I discovered that although turning the ignition switch could engage the starter, the engine would not run because when the switch/key was set back from starting, 12 volts were no longer making their way to the coil.
I could get the Bug to run by running the starter and then quickly turning the switch to off and then to ACC (the first 'click' when turning the key).
Any ideas or thought as to how I might be able to track down this problem?
I am not intimately familiar with the 1974 model year. But, that having been said, your ignition "switch" is actually a housing with three separate, but interacting components. There is a mechanical switch which works by key, a steering column lock, and an electronic switch. Your electronic switch is shot. Of the three components this is usually the easiest to replace. It simply pulls out (you may have to remove a grub screw) without affecting the other two components. Replacements for this electronic switch are easily found at any import FLAPS
hehe..had the very same problem in my 74....sometimes it worked great other times, crank, crank, crank, and no start....the electrical part of the ignition switch is bad....if i remember correctly(and i may be off here, my memory is a little shady at times) the electrical portion is removable from the bottom of the column....the rubber plug at the top of the harness plugs directly into the electrical portion of the ignition switch...if i remember correctly there is a small screw securing the white plastic electrical part....remove the screw and slide the plastic part out....it *can* be disassembled and the contacts cleaned, but would probably be better to just replace it.... i found that if i grasped the rubber plug under the colum and "jiggled" it while cranking it would make contact and the engine would fire....did this for about two years before i took the electrical portion apart....good luck
------------------- Chris Perdue
*All opinions are those of the author of this post* "Sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug"
Mine is also acting up has well but it starts okay it is just the lights that don't work for me. I have to jiggle the wire plug to get them to come on. I have own my 72' since 98 and have replace this stupid switch about 5 times. I have bought then from aircool.net, local parts store, and motorworks etc they are all junk. So when you buy one buy two because it sucks being stranded. Jim sent me a note on how to buy pass the switch to get my head lights to work but I have not done it. I'm thinking about taking the switch out all together and use a toggle one. I wish I could find a OEM switch from VW to keep it original but I guess that in the past.
After more effort than should have been required, I was able to remove the ignition switch. Although it now looks like I will need to cut off the plastic cowling which covers the wiper lever, turn signal arm and the ignition switch. As I see no other means to get to the small set screw which Bentley tells me is there (Bentley Service Manual '70-'79, Electrical System p. 23, Fig. 7-1).
The manual also shows a guide pin in the lock housing, (Electrical Systems, p.24, Fig. 7-4.) which is not present on this Bug. Any ideas as to how this can be corrected?
You have to take the whole lock assembly off the steering column to get to that little screw. It should have taken you less than one hour to replace the ign. switch on a 72 T1. You might need to turn the ign. key some to remove assembly after removing any allen bolts clamping assemble to the column. It has been too long since I have changed one on a T1. :-)
later, dave Reminder........ Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their shoes. Frieda Norris
If yours is a late '74, the entire security part of the lock was altered. I believe this began with 114 2358021 VIN. If so it's not covered in Bentley. Also, it uses a different switch: 111 905 865L.
Here's the procedure I filched from some unknown person a while back: (My apologies for not being able to give credit; I take no responsibility for the procedure.):
To remove 1975 and later switches:
Disconnect the battery ground strap. Bleed pressure from the windshield washer fluidreservoir.
Carefully pry the horn button out of the center of the steering wheel.
Remove the nut that holds the steering wheel to the steering column. Then lift off the steering wheel.
Remove the spring and the spacer from the top end of the steering column.
Remove the four screws that hold the turn signal switch and the wiper switch to the lugs on the steering lock housing. NOTE? Be careful not to lose the four spacer tubes that are between the switches. The four switch mounting screws pass through the centers of these spacer tubes.
Disconnect the water hoses from the water on the wiper switch. Disconnect the wires for the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.
Remove the turn signal switch, the wiper switch and the switch housing upper trim from the steering column.
Locate the round hole that is in the lower left-hand side of the lower part of the switch housing The hole provides access to the shear bolt.
Working through the access hole, drill into the center of the shear bolt. The hole that you drill should be at least 7 mm (or 1/4 in.) deep. CAUTION? To prevent the drill bit from wandering, which could damage the steering lock housing, carefully centerpunch the shear bolt before you affempt to drill it. Select a drill size that is appropriate to the diameter of the shear bolt and to the diameter of an available left-hand thread cuffing tap. Insert a left-hand thread cutting tap into the drilled shear bolt. Then turn the tap counterclockwise in order to remove the shear bolt.
Insert the key into the ignition lock and unlock the steering column. .
Working beneath the switch housing lower trim, remove the two Phillips head screws that hold the trim to the bottom of the steering lock housing.
Remove the steering lock by sliding it up and off the steering column.
If necessary, remove the ignition/starter switch mounting screw. Then remove the ignition/starter switch from the steering lock housing.
To remove the lock cylinder, use pliers to pull the lock cover plate out of the steering lock housing. This will provide access to the hole for lock cylinder removal. You may find that on 1976 and later vehicles the hole used to release the retaining spring is missing. A hole must be drilled in the switch housing, as indicated in Fig. 7-7 Use a piece of steel wire inserted in the hole to depress the spring while you remove the cylinder.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Loosely install a new shear bolt but do not tighten it until you have installed the steering wheel. Center the steering. Then install the steering wheel so that its spokes are horizontal. Torque the steering wheel nut to 5.O mkg (36 ft. Ib.). With the steering wheel installed, adjust the gap between the bottom of the steering wheel and the face of the turn signal switch to 2 to 3 mm (1/16to 1/8 in.). Then tighten the shear bolt until its head breaks off. Install the horn button so that the crest is upright when the steering wheel spokes are horizontal.
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