Motor Overheat'n?

Ramva,

I have only 160 miles on my brand new 2006cc motor, and the motor is heating up really fast only after a 20 min drive. I have a gene berg oil temp dipstick that is letting me know the oil is reaching 225 degrees. Idrove it once, light came on, and havent had a chance to do anything but think about it, due to my present work schedule. It ran fine up until about two weeks ago. I was driving it without a decklid and it never overheated. Since i put the decklid on, (stock, no stand offs, no louvers in the lid) the motor runs damn hot. I am missing the rear engine tin (where the fresh air paper tubes pass through) , that i plan to install (needs to modified to fit) but I am wondering if with the decklid in place and the rear tin missing, would that be a significant reason for it to overheat?

Also, I have 3.5 quart berg deep sump. I have filled the motor with oil to the stock max limit line on the dipstick. Thats alot of oil. about 5.5 quarts.I am running a berg 30 mm pump with their full flow oil filter on the bumper bracket. My cr is 6.9 and I am running pump gas (super unleaded.) I have a stock doghouse oil coooler and all of the stock tin inplace, even the shutters, no thermo. So, do you all think its the decklid with no stand offs and the tin or something else?Could there be an air lock in the cooler? Could my two pressure releif valves be stuck? (new case) Pressure does build normally at start up. I am running a 009 with weber 42 DCNF carbs. When the motor is hot, it still runs great, with lots of power.I do trust the dipstick, I think its working, because the motor was wicked hot after the 20 min drive. and I am in NORCAL and its been in the low eighties here.

I appreciate any help,

Andy in Dixon

Reply to
<1l75
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All the hot air which has just cooled your engine, and heat from the exhaust are recirculating around into the engine bay. That peice of tin is VITAL! Try it!

Allan :-0

Reply to
Allan Williams

On Mon, 24 May 2004 05:15:47 GMT, ran around screaming and yelling:

Andy, Vw put louvers in teh decklid when the displacement grew to

1600cc engines....why? because the louvers below the rear window did not flow enough air to cool the engine with the larger displacement...you have added quite a bit more displacement and have *less* air intake...EXCEPT the big gaping whole where the rear tin goes...so think logically, the fan is sucking all the air from the engine compartment causing a vacuum of sorts, air will enter through the easiest spot...in this case the easiest path is through the missing tin, and that also means you are getting nice hot air that has just been used to cool the engine PLUS heat from the header....add dual carbs to the mix and the need for more air is multiplied again....do yourself a favor, make sure you get that piece of tin installed NOW, before you have to make a post entitled "what is wrong with my NEW engine"....seriously...you need that tin AND standoffs(either at the latch or at the hinges) to feed your engine the air it needs..... JT
Reply to
Joey Tribiani

...I am missing the rear engine tin (where the fresh air paper tubes pass through) , that i plan to install (needs to modified to fit) but I am wondering if with the decklid in place and the rear tin missing, would that be a significant reason for it to overheat?...

.when you hear the sound of hooves, think horses, not zebra's. You seem to be looking for zebra's when the horse is staring you right in the face.

Reply to
Richard C. Trochlil

Anyone know where you can get hold of the rubber donuts that fit around the air tubes to seal them to the bottom tin?

--Steve

Reply to
tunafish

Here's one source:

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These are shown with the fresh air hoses and clamps. They might be available separately.

GaryT

Reply to
GaryT

would that

Absolutely.

Those tin pieces are there for a reason. The rear tin is right over the exhaust, so your cooling fan will be sucking in nice HOT air. ESPECIALLY if you have no louvers in the engine lid, then it will suck in even MORE hot air. For a 2006 engine, you NEED louvers in the engine lid. Think about it: VW put louvers in the engine lid when the engine size hit 1600cc.

~Anthony

Reply to
Anthony

...any West Coast Metric dealer can get them....which is practically any VW parts store.

HTH...

..Gareth

Reply to
Gary Tateosian

Whoa! Richard! Can I use that? That's great! Never heard it before. Hmmm... Think Horses - not Zebras... Yeah. I LIKE it! -BH

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Reply to
Busahaulic

Thanks everyone. I will put that piece of tin and probably stand the decklid off at the latch. I am not of fan of the stand offs at the hinges for cosemetic reasons, but I will run them if I must.

The reason I posted this question, was to see what others thought the first problem would be to fix. Yes, I knew that the tin is needed, but I wanted to see what others thought. Since the responses were very adament regarding that rear engine tin, Ill start there.... A 2006 in a 60 bug, I will have to modify the rear tin to fit. Now its about a half inch too wide (from cylinder tin to rear apron.)

Anyone know of an easy way to stand the decklid off at the latch, versus the hinges? I'd like to stand if off there and still be able to secure the decklid to the rear apron with the stock latch.

Thanks again

Reply to
<1l75

On Tue, 25 May 2004 04:14:24 GMT, ran around screaming and yelling:

JOHN STAFFORD!!!! post the pic of your trick latch on your 58.... JT

Reply to
Joey Tribiani

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