My '69 Bug won't idle.

Gave up trying to get all the performance issues ironed out of my old carb

- last straw was when the car refused to idle - hot or cold. Bought a rebuilt Solex and popped it on. Started well, runs much better than the old one but it too will not let the car idle. Engine dies as soon as rpms drop below approx 1200rpm.

Any suggestions on my next step?

Thanks in advance for help on this AND previous requests for assistance!!!

Reply to
nowan
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1) Idle solenoid working? Clean idle jet with compressed air? 2) Timing correct? 3) Vacuum leaks? Has manifold ever been removed? 4) Compression adequate?

Speedy Jim

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Reply to
Speedy Jim

Speedy Jim wrote in news:0X_wi.4162$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net:

1) Idle solenoid - it clicks when I put 12v to it.... Question - should it click EVERY TIME I put 12v to it? Seems as though it will click but that's it for a period of time. 2) I believe my timing, while maybe not perfect is close. 3) Vacuum leaks - that was my first suspect and I've checked pretty thoroughly - spraying WD-40 at all suspicious places 4) Motor is new - 1000K miles - better be sufficient.

Thanks for the quick response!

Reply to
nowan

1000 K Miles?? Well, there you have it. LOL

The idle cutoff must click *every* time 12V is applied. See that it is screwed in tightly and that all the push-on terminals are tight and the crimps not failed. Or....run a jumper wire from battery + to the solenoid (as a test).

That may be a red herring, but failure to idle below 1200 sure does sound like the cutoff solenoid.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Speedy Jim wrote in news:4c2xi.129$YQ.86 @nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com:

I took it out, grounded it against the block, applied 12v to it and it clicks. Take the 12v away for a couple of seconds and reapply 12v and nothing. If you claim that putting 12v to it, I should get a click, take

12v away for a second, reapply 12v I should get another click on & on & on... then it's the cutoff solenoid.... Off to find one and I'll report back.
Reply to
nowan

then it's the cutoff solenoid.... Off to find one and I'll report

If you don't find one, e-mail me.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Speedy Jim wrote in news:PC3xi.942$Oo.292 @newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:

Found one. Just installed it and I have the same problem. Starts great, runs great, just won't idle. The slightest pumping will keep it running but take your foot off and it just dies. For what it's worth, from the few minutes I ran it, it seemed as though I didn't need to keep the revs up nearly as high as before,,, Any further suggestions?

Reply to
nowan

Does this one click every time you apply 12V?

30PICT carb, right?

2 bad carbs? Idle circuit clogged.

If I were **100%** certain there were no vacuum leaks anywhere, I would blow the carb passages out with 100 psi air.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Speedy Jim wrote in news:Firxi.2130$ snipped-for-privacy@nlpi069.nbdc.sbc.com:

Sorry, it's a 34PICT3. What are the odds that the rebuilt one is bad? That's rhetorical.... The new solenoid clicks each and every time, so there was a problem with the old one as it would not. Ok, I'll go back and retest for leaks.

Thanks Jim for hangin' with me on this.

Reply to
nowan

Speedy Jim:

Can a person test the fuel cut-off by putting a plug in its place so that it is forced on?

Reply to
pico

Are you *sure* it is timed right?

Reply to
Michael Cecil

What is a 34PICT doing on a '69??

Is this not the original engine? If it's now dual port, do a thorough leak test on the manifold, not just WD40.

BTW, the 34PICT solenoid can't be tested off the carb; it won't pull in of its own usually.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

On a 34PICT, the usual trick is to snip the plunger off the solenoid. You could remove the solenoid completely and plug the opening.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Speedy Jim wrote in news:01Cxi.6288$4w7.2472 @newssvr22.news.prodigy.net:

Not the original engine. New dual port motor. How can I test for leaks on the manifold without using WD40 or some other flammable at seams?

Checking the timing right now.

Reply to
nowan

This may be considered "extreme", but sometimes it is warranted:

Make some sort of temporary adapter to connect an air source to the manifold (in place of the carb). You don't need high pressure air; a vacuum cleaner (reversed) might be enough. Even a tire air pump.

Remove both rocker shafts so that all the valves are closed.

Start air source and apply soapy solution to all points in the intake, *including* where the manifold ends meet the heads.

Watch for bubbles.

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

nowan wrote in news:Xns999087DDB220Fnowan@

66.250.146.128:

Timing is good.Unless there's a way I can test vacuum, I guess it's time to give up and find a shop here in San Diego that know what they're doing with bugs....

Reply to
nowan

Speedy Jim wrote in news:mIIxi.1013$vU4.774 @nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com:

It may very well be a leak 'down line' from the carb as when I first got it back from the shop, the intake manifold boots were badly torn, indicating to me that the shop did a crappy job of finishing up. I replaced the intake boots and it ran fine for a period of time. Maybe they were sloppy and didn't lock down something... I'll report back.

Again, thanks a lot!

Reply to
nowan

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