Need advice on engine rebuild

Id like to NOT have to get the case machined

then leave the current engine alone and order a new one....every type 1 rebuild will require, at minimum, a good "checking" by a qualified machine shop...usually machine work is necessary just to "rebuild" never mind if you want to up the displacement

I want to do a build up of the current motor, as the case is in good shape. If i have to take it to a machine shop to get looked at to ensure the surfaces are ok, thats fine. I just want to avoid boring it out.

Can i do bigger pistons/cylanders/heads without a longer stroke?

only slip in pistons can be used without machining. You'd be better to just have it bored out to the size pistons and cylinders you want to use. it's not that expensive, and if you really want a power increase it is necessary. Depending on where you live and how much work the case needs( "good shape" could still mean that machine work is needed) you might be better in the long run to order a new case already machined....

Let's see if I understand this. 1st you write "I have just bought a 1969 Baja for $300. The engine doesnt run very good at all, or not at all right now. It only has SP heads and a single carb. Want to go to a dual car setup and dp heads. Gonna tear the engine down and rebuild it, was thinking about upping the displacement. What options do i have? What parts will i need? Id like to NOT have to get the case machined if possible."

Then you are told that type 1 engines all need to have the case checked and probably machined.

Then you say "I want to do a build up of the current motor, as the case is in good shape."

How do you know this?!? Type 1 cases may look pretty on the outside, but beauty is only skin deep. Is it a 1500 or a 1600? You can go as large as a 1641 with slip in 87's....

Ok, let me try and clarify. The motor has sit for 3 years, and just started today. I spent about 2 hrs getting it to start by cleaning the carb, and messing with the timing. With old gas, oil, and a crappy battery it started and stayed started as long as i was hitting the gas. The motor is a 1600cc SP with solex carb. Im fairly certain that i could get it running without a rebuild, but i did that once in my 1970 and dont want to do that again. I want to start with what i have. Im 99% certain that the case is good and the engine is decent but the problems are from it just sitting for so long. (yes, previous owner towed it home and did nothing with it for 3 years) If im going to have to get it machine, i might as well go for gusto and build up an 1835 or 1915.

check in either a vw magazine, a local autoparts store like BowWow(specializing in VW) or check at vwvortex.com

The case may need line boring anyway, so if you have to take it to a machine shop for THAT, it would be a perfect opportunity to open the cylinder holes up for 90.5mm cylinders.

If you don't want to do it, your best option would be to stay with stock

1600 cylinder size (85.5mm). There ARE "slip in" kits available, 87 and 88mm, but they have problems due to too thin cylinder wall. I would stay away from them.

There are also "machine-in" 88 kits, which would be great but then you need to machine the case openings bigger again... UNLESS.. you have a shop turn the base of the M-I 88's down to stock size. It gets REALLY thin and cracks easily, but there's not much stress on it once they are installed.

Jan

There are so many combinations of parts and other variables that nobody can give you a complete list until you specify what you want to build.

For now, it seems that you might want to buy a new piston and cylinder kit. You have a burning desire to go bigger, so I'd say 87mm is your only reasonable option, they are not as thin as the 88's. But the difference in power that it gives you, you will never notice. You will notice the increased power of NEW AND TIGHT parts. You'd get exactly the same power from a stock 1600 kit.

Other than that, we don't have enough information from you to start making parts recommendations. Some questions would be:

-Do you have an approximate HP goal?

-Does it have to be very streetable, easy to drive, or are you willing to sacrifice driveability in favor of top end power?

-Do you run big rear tires in your baja, and therefore need torque instead of top end power?

-do you want good fuel economy?

-What is your budget, roughly?

-is this just a temporary solution on your way to buiodling something bigger later? (Keep it stock and save your money for the other engine, keep this car driveable while you build the other engine with no rush)

This is just a start :)

Jan

So take the head off and measure the cylinders you now have --- they may be

87mm and you only need to hone them and use new piston rings. Real German P&C are better than most of the new replacments.