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New engine not running correct

I will start with the setup; Type I 1776 Engle 110 Cam

044 heads (if memory serves me correct) with 40 mm intake and 35 mm exhaust valves Stock rockers Single Weber 44 IDF (came off a dual setup) .009 distributor Headers with heater boxes

Now for the problem. The car dies when I step on the throttle. If you rev it up slowly (to slow to drive) it will keep increasing rpm. I was able to break the cam in and I have the timing setup to what I found in posts here. Total advance is 30 deg at 3000 rpm and idle is at 7 deg at 900 rpm. The car does run very hot which leads me to believe the car is running lean. With the carb coming from a dual setup, I would guess I need to bump up the jets. Where do I start for jet size? Also during assembly I was never able to get the distributor drive pinion at exact perpendicular. The manual said approximately so I got it as close as I could but it is just past perpendicular.

Any clue as to what the trouble may be and how best to fix it?

Reply to
Glenn
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your first problem is the carb; jetting for a centermount is VERY DIFFERENT then the same carb in a dual configuration.

What size venturis, emulsions, idle/main/air jets are in it now?

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

Reply to
John Connolly

Venturis is 36 that I can. I am not sure about the jets. The carb is new so it may be factory. The kit was never installed and I didn't really think dual 44's on a 1776 would be a good ideal, so I am using the one for this car.

Reply to
Glenn

different companies provide different jets with their kits, (usually wrong). The only way to know is for you to remove them and check, then we can help you.

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

Reply to
John Connolly

I looked and this is what I found: idle 50 main 135 air correction 175 emulsion tube F11 venturi 36

Glenn

Reply to
Glenn

So after reading the tech article on Aircooled.net (jetting carbs) I am guessing I will need a 60 or 65 for the idle but I have no ideal where to start for the main or air. I doubt I will get to an RPM range that would require the air jets but I might as well try to get them close.

Reply to
Glenn

e-mail me privately and I'll help you out.

I guaranteee you need some work on the carbs, including jetting.

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

Reply to
John Connolly

PS: Dual 44s are fine on a 1776

I run dual 48s on a 1914 and can pull away from a stoplight EASY in 3rd gear. its all in the setup.

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

Reply to
John Connolly

..................Hey John. Why don't you post the complete specs on your

1914? I'm sure that I'm not the only one who'd like to know more about it.
Reply to
Tim Rogers
69mm CW Crank, 10lb flywheel (8 dowelled of course), chromoly gland nut, Dual 48 IDF Webers (40mm venturis), ACN L6 Heads (42 X 37.5mm valves), 94mm A Super Squish Pistons, Low Helix cam gear, and a squishy grind cam (with 1.1 rockers; .450" lift). Compression is 11:1, and runs great on pump gas. Stock doghouse cooling system, with power pulley and welded fan (to prevent grenading of the fan). HP belt to prevent stretching and belt flipping over 6500 RPM. Exhaust is 1 5/8" Merged (a good one, not EMPI), with an A-1 Phat Boy.

This engine may be for sale shortly (with 40 X 35mm heads), since the current engine in the car is getting it's last tuning, a 2332 powerhouse with a LOT of goodies.

John Aircooled.Net Inc.

Reply to
John Connolly

The car is running and drivable! I have some fine tunings to look into and some detail work left. Thanks John for your help. I still need to change the emulsion tubes to F7. I will also be upgrading the ignition this winter.

Reply to
Glenn

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